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acpilot    1

Duramat

 

Thanks for the great video and idea. I built something similar and tried it today using my fake-a lake. It worked well except I will shorten the hose from the "Y" to the fake a lake. Mine was quite long and as a result I don't think the impeller was able to pull it at a fast enough rate because the temp did creep up to 185 as I was nearing the end of the bucket of A/F. I turned it off before any alarm or warning and I am quite sure it wasn't a big deal. Thinking about it after I figure it would work better if the hose was a constant descent from the bucket to the "Y" to the fake a lake, hence no need to suck the A/F up hill.

 

Tomorrow pull the plugs and spray a little storage spray in each cylinder as I turn the fly wheel and then off to storage.

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duramat    462

AC, awesome! You think by putting the bucket up higher (on the sun pad) you think it would suck it through your fake a lake below? (using gravity to help suck it in). I was going to buy a fake a lake but the dealer was helping me save some coin so I didn't use one. I think your temp was fine, mine was running at 175 when I did mine. How many gallons did you go through? Also what fluid extractor did you use? I think I want a better one for next year.

 

:thumbsup:

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islander033    2
AC, awesome! You think by putting the bucket up higher ....

:thumbsup:

 

Agreed, hydrostatic pressure (have the bucket or funnel higher than the intake) is your friend. I had zero problems with my funnel at that height.

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duramat    462

Sweet! I'll pick up a fake a lake next year and won't have to take my hose apart at the v drive. I like the idea of the A/F going through the V drive.

 

Kmoney, I honestly don't know. Maybe someone with more knowledge will chime in for ya

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acpilot    1

Duramat

 

I use the tall cylindrical 4 liter fluid extractor from West Marine. It works well, and even better after I modified it to screw onto my dipstick. Just remember that the oil has to be really warm and it only takes about 10 pumps and she sucks it almost dry. The tranny fluid no problem as well.

 

Yes I did have my bucket on the swim pad, however, the hose as I mentioned was too long and went down below the fake-a lake. I went thru about 4 1/2 gallons of AF and I think about just over 2 gallons stayed in the engine, heater hoses etc. I will pour some in manually via the main water pump hose just to fill up.

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DarksideR    1,679

Great posts Dura/Islander.

Im gonna do the winterize myself this year too, and Im so glad you guys have done this. But, let me know if I got this right, step by step.

 

1: Top up gas tank and add stabil. run for 5 mins with water through fakelake or Dura style.

2: Run engine with AF till color coming out the exhaust. (I have a heater, does this go through the heater and V-drive too)?(No need to remove plugs)?

3: Fog??? Y/N?

4: Remove ballast filter, blow out lines with air.

5: Disconnect battery and remove.

6: Put in the drier sheets and moisture control stuff.

7: Start winter mods... or cry self to sleep and dream of nailing that 360 next summer. :thumbsup:

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DarksideR    1,679

Oh yeah... change oil. and V-drive fluid? what about the impeller?

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islander033    2
...

1: Top up gas tank and add stabil. run for 5 mins with water through fakelake or Dura style. (until engine is up to temp)

2: Run engine with AF till color coming out the exhaust. (I have a heater, does this go through the heater and V-drive too)?(No need to remove plugs)? (Fake-a-lake hits all of that, expect to use around 16L due to heater)

3: Fog??? Y/N? (no clear answer on this issue but this is where you change the oil while it is hot)

4: Remove ballast filter, blow out lines with air. (I emptied my strainer then sucked about 4L of RV through the fake-a-lake at the ballast intake)

5: Disconnect battery and remove. (yep)

6: Put in the drier sheets and moisture control stuff. (sure)

7: Start winter mods... or cry self to sleep and dream of nailing that 360 next summer. :thumbsup:(you bet)

note: You can get your fake-a-lake from CDN Tire for about $20.

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DarksideR    1,679

Thanks man! I already have the fake a lake from canadian tire, so Im set! LOL.

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islander033    2
Oh yeah... change oil. and V-drive fluid? what about the impeller?

 

Sounds like the impeller should be done in the spring.

 

I did my V-drive and tranny when I changed my oil.

 

note: H20king says he will be doing a complete write up soon on his winterizing routine, so be on the look out for it.

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DarksideR    1,679
Sounds like the impeller should be done in the spring.

 

I did my V-drive and tranny when I changed my oil.

 

note: H20king says he will be doing a complete write up soon on his winterizing routine, so be on the look out for it.

 

Cool! Thanks.

K, I feel dumb... I thought the V-drive was the tranny...? :thumbsup:

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Nice to here of more Centurions that are not in Texas or Canada as that is a bit of a drive to hookup.

 

 

You make it sounds like were about the same size!

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Cool! Thanks.

K, I feel dumb... I thought the V-drive was the tranny...? :thumbsup:

 

I did the first year too.... which is ok, cause I think my dealer did too...

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islander033    2
....

2: Run engine with AF till color coming out the exhaust. (I have a heater, does this go through the heater and V-drive too)?(No need to remove plugs)?....

 

 

I did remove my plugs after the RV-AF treatment (like duramat) and used a shop vac to suck out my heater lines.

 

Let the snow fly.... :thumbsup:

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h20king    794

I am going to hold off on winterizing for another week or so forecast is calling for mid seventy's next week so I am hoping to get out at least one more time I am still in the denial stage I cant believe summer is over already where did the time go??.....................H

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DarksideR    1,679
I did remove my plugs after the RV-AF treatment (like duramat) and used a shop vac to suck out my heater lines.

 

Let the snow fly.... :thumbsup:

 

Why? All the plugs? Drained the AF? Shouldn't it be safe with it in?

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islander033    2
Why? All the plugs? Drained the AF? Shouldn't it be safe with it in?

I did it to make absolutely sure that I wasn't making a 10K mistake.

 

If you drain the water out first, then add RV-AF directly after, I would be more confident that there was no dilution of the AF with water.

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h20king    794
I did it to make absolutely sure that I wasn't making a 10K mistake.

 

If you drain the water out first, then add RV-AF directly after, I would be more confident that there was no dilution of the AF with water.

Good thinking islander I always add the antifreeze manually through the hoses for you guys that mixed antifreeze with water it would be a good idea to go to the auto parts store and buy a antifreeze mixture checker it has several different balls inside with a sight glass you just suck up some of the mix and depending on which ball is floating will tell you what temp you are protected to I would sure hate to hear any of the crew freeze cracked because their antifreeze mix was wrong as RV antifreeze dilutes much easier than regular antifreeze JMTC..........H

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DarksideR    1,679

Ok, I get it. Im a bit paranoid, cause I'll be storing the boat at my house this year. It'll be sorta halfway under my carport( cause my stupid carport is so low I have to remove the upper part of the tower to get it under to the windshield ). Tarping over the rest as well as my boat cover, and gonna put a troublelight or small heater in it near the engine too. Winters here on the coast don't get too cold, but still cold enough!

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guitarcrazy    0

Does anyone do anything with the tranny? I drained the block, blew out the heater, drained the V-Drive and added anti-freeze, emptied ballast filter, and removed battery. I can't think of anything necessary to do to the tranny, any ideas?

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