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Mikeyan1122

SURF HELP - 2008 C4 AVY

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Mikeyan1122    0

Anyone have any advice on who I can turn to or best set up for my 2008 Centurion C4 AVY? Currently have:

#750 Port Rear- Sac

#500 Starboard Rear- Sac 

#200-250 Center- Hard Tank

#300 Bow- Sac

#160 Bow Seat- Sand- Move to surf-side for rider (Regular/Goofy)

Surfed well last year on both sides with a wake shaper. Wondering if I can add more/move weight etc I can make improvements. Anyone who has this boat dialed in I am alllll ears. 

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Bigcatpt    408

I owned an Avy for 12 years.  Played with weight and settings for years.  I feel like I got the very best wave I could out of that boat and it was a great wave.  

First of all.... Ditch the shaper.  You will get a better wave without it.  2nd.... ditch the bow weight.  The Avy does not like or need bow weight.  About all it needs in the bow is some eye candy in a bikini.  

Port side:  Upgrade your rear sac to 1100#.  It may not fill completely but it will fill more of the space with more weight than the 750#.  Then put a 580# side sac under the port side seats.  250# in center tank.  And if you really want it to pop add about 100 to 150 lbs of weight bags in each rear corners as far back as you can get them under the rear sacs.  Lean that thing over to the rub rail and watch the magic!  10.7 to 11.2 GPS speed will make the wave go from big with lots of push to longer but you will lose a little push.  Don't add bow weight to lengthen the wave.  Just speed up a little bit.  

Starboard:  Copy the port side.  The wave will not be quite as clean unless you have a RH rotation prop.  You have got to lean that beast to get clean wave on this side.  But it will be big and powerful.   If you get an asymmetric wing trim plate it will clean up the goofy side as well.      

For some reason everyone wants to use a shaper.  The Avy hull is enough of a deep V to not need it.  Every other brand of boat in that year range need a shaper.  The Avy does not.  Unless you want a more level boat...but it will diminish your wave.  

Good luck

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baroda5    1

Is a 2003 Avalanche C4 (without walkway) the same hull/setup as your '08?

 

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Mikeyan1122    0

Bigcatpt-- Much respect for the feedback!

You really think the shaper is holding me back here? Doing what you said, could the shaper be an addition to supporting a great wave, or at that point (leaning over to the rub rail) we're talking diminishing returns/not going to make a difference?

Any recommendations/brand on what #580 side sacs to grab and/or #1100 pound sac for the rear sacs? Round or square rear sac to better protect pushing too hard against the hull? Could I even buy two custom #1800 sacs, all in one, one port one starboard, that continue from the rear under the port/starboard seats? This way I would be able to use the plumed in lines for the sacs so filling and draining would be simple. (Switch from #750 to #1100 or the all in one #1800)

Otherwise, the two #580 side sacs (one port one starboard) will be using my tsunami drop-in pump. Rider side switch, drain one side then fill the other. A 10-15 min process I don't really mind for the upfront money I saved, but want to be as efficient with this fill/drain process as possible. 

My current trim plate is flat and manual. If I keep this, any recommendations as to what position to leave it in? (All the way down, up, neutral) Same question if I grab the wing trim plate. (Down, up, neutral) I don't want to be in the water with a wrench making adjustments all day ha, and not going to drop any $$ on an electric one. 

Sorry for all the questions but man I appreciate your knowledge!

 

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Bigcatpt    408
9 hours ago, baroda5 said:

Is a 2003 Avalanche C4 (without walkway) the same hull/setup as your '08?

 

The hull is the same through all those years 

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Bigcatpt    408
9 hours ago, Mikeyan1122 said:

Bigcatpt-- Much respect for the feedback!

You really think the shaper is holding me back here? Doing what you said, could the shaper be an addition to supporting a great wave, or at that point (leaning over to the rub rail) we're talking diminishing returns/not going to make a difference?

Any recommendations/brand on what #580 side sacs to grab and/or #1100 pound sac for the rear sacs? Round or square rear sac to better protect pushing too hard against the hull? Could I even buy two custom #1800 sacs, all in one, one port one starboard, that continue from the rear under the port/starboard seats? This way I would be able to use the plumed in lines for the sacs so filling and draining would be simple. (Switch from #750 to #1100 or the all in one #1800)

Otherwise, the two #580 side sacs (one port one starboard) will be using my tsunami drop-in pump. Rider side switch, drain one side then fill the other. A 10-15 min process I don't really mind for the upfront money I saved, but want to be as efficient with this fill/drain process as possible. 

My current trim plate is flat and manual. If I keep this, any recommendations as to what position to leave it in? (All the way down, up, neutral) Same question if I grab the wing trim plate. (Down, up, neutral) I don't want to be in the water with a wrench making adjustments all day ha, and not going to drop any $$ on an electric one. 

Sorry for all the questions but man I appreciate your knowledge!

 

Yes I really think if you are looking for the absolute BEST wave on each side you do not want the shaper.  Now if you want a submaximal wave but still a really good wave and a more level boat.... use the shaper.  However you will have to run more overall ballast in order to get it to work.  But switching sides will be faster for sure.  The shaper really does no good to use it while listing the boat.  Its either one or the other.    

I custom ordered "L" shaped sacs that filled the whole rear compartment and all the way under the side seats.  This route is more expensive than having separate sacs but makes the plumbing easier.  At the time Flying High made the best fat sacs.  Not sure now.  But basically this shape but custom ordered to fill EVERY SQUARE INCH of my rear compartments and under the side seats.  https://www.wakemakers.com/fly-high-enzo-surf-sac.html

If you want 2 separate sacs I would recommend this https://www.wakemakers.com/fly-high-jumbo-surf-sac.html  and this https://www.wakemakers.com/wakemakers-center-lbs-ballast-bag.html.  The second one you can custom order the length of it.  

What is your pump set up?  I was starting from scratch so I put in two reversible Johnson Ultra Ballast pumps pulling from one 1 1/4 thru hull that I installed in the bottom of the boat.  Then ran it through a manifold to either direct it to port side custom sac or stbd side sacs.  If you went with a 2 sac per side set up you could have one pump filing each sac.  We also put 2 extra axillary fill/empty lines off the manifold to use in filling a bow sac (never used it) or an extra sac on the seat if we had a light crew.  They are also useful for water fights and as an emergency water vacuum line to suck water out of your bilge in the case of bilge pump failure.  Or to pump out water of the main cabin when you take a rogue wave over the rear corner when you are out surfing and your wife is not paying attention to the huge roller coming toward the slumped down side as she turns to pick you up. 

I never installed a different trim plate on mine but in hind sight should have.  I had the fixed one like yours.  Just leave it where it is.  It is not really designed to move even though it has the turnbuckle looking adjustments on it.  If you decide to add an adjustable asymmetric plate there are plenty of threads on here sharing that info.  You will not need it on the port side at all. But it will clean up the goofy side a lot. 

Let me know what other questions you have.       

 

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Troy. R    188

@Bigcatpt knows his stuff when it comes to setting these boats up. His ballast build posts and insight were a big part of my ballast design/build.

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Troy. R    188
1 hour ago, Troy. R said:

@Bigcatpt knows his stuff when it comes to setting these boats up. His ballast build posts and insight were a big part of my ballast design/build.

On the Asymmetrical trim tab, I would worry about that down the road after the ballast is dialed. I did do the Asym plate and it was really useful for cleaning up the goofy wave and making wave length/height adjustments.

Here's my Asymmetrical plate thread for anyone who is interested:

 

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