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Hdrk2004

Winterization 2007 Elite V

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Hdrk2004    0

Does anyone have a video on how to winterize a 2007 Elite V for Ohio winter? I want to do it myself this year.

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Troy. R    141

Are you wanting to run antifreeze through the engine or just drain it?

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Troy. R    141

Gotcha. I can’t help there. I’ve only lived in CA and AZ. Winterizing is not a big deal out here! Haha!

Actually we were out Monday and Tuesday. The water temp was still 85 At Lake Saguaro in Mesa, AZ.

I know many others do what you’re intending to do. Hopefully someone will respond shortly.

Edited by Troy. R

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FS44Surfer    0

Yes I am wondering the same thing. I have a Enzo FS44 with the XR550 in it. I’m in the mountains and need to winterize for a very cold winter where we are. Is it necessary to run antifreeze through the motor when my engine already has it? Or should I just empty the things the manual says and blow out? Also what about ramp fill? Thanks! 

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Troy. R    141
4 minutes ago, FS44Surfer said:

Yes I am wondering the same thing. I have a Enzo FS44 with the XR550 in it. I’m in the mountains and need to winterize for a very cold winter where we are. Is it necessary to run antifreeze through the motor when my engine already has it? Or should I just empty the things the manual says and blow out? Also what about ramp fill? Thanks! 

I would think with the closed cooling system you can get away with just draining the heat exchanger etc. as for Ramfill, isn’t there a trailer mode or something that opens all the valves?

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volzalum    277

With the XR550, you definitely need to drain both heat exchangers and the exhaust manifolds and the vDrive and the oil cooler if you do not run antifreeze through. I typically run RV antifreeze through mine (also FS44 with XR550) and leave it. One year I only ran 6 gallons through it (vs the normal 12 gallons) and did not drain afterwards. Had to replace both heat exchangers and both exhaust manifold elbows. Will not make that mistake again. 

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jtryon    14

if you have the Black Scorpion in your Elite V,  i followed this procedure last year here in the cold northeast (boat is kept in a non-heated, detatched garage):

i skipped the v-drive fluid and trans fluid change in the fall and did the other stuff.  add Stabil or Startron to your gas tank before starting this procedure, and fill the tank up.  i just pulled the 7 blue drain plugs and didn't put antifreeze in, but have a coathanger on hand to run inside the plug holes that you pull out to drain, to make sure there's nothing keeping them from draining completely.

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MobEnzo    51

I use the same as linked above for mine without issue the past 5 years.

  1. add stabil
  2. warm up engine on hose
  3. change oil and filter
  4. change any other fluids - transmission and v-drive (I don’t do this every year)
  5. run engine again on hose
  6. drain water from engine block
  7. run rv antifreeze through engine
  8. run rv antifreeze through ballast pumps
  9. think about boating all winter 😜

Note, that the above does not take into account a heater or shower if you have one. I change transmission every couple of years and haven’t changed v-drive yet. Both always look/smell perfect, but I typically only put 30-40 hours on per season. I have topped v-drive off. V-drive is a non-detergent SAE 30 I believe. Non-detergent is the important part.

 

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jtryon    14
14 hours ago, MobEnzo said:

I use the same as linked above for mine without issue the past 5 years.

  1. add stabil
  2. warm up engine on hose
  3. change oil and filter
  4. change any other fluids - transmission and v-drive (I don’t do this every year)
  5. run engine again on hose
  6. drain water from engine block
  7. run rv antifreeze through engine
  8. run rv antifreeze through ballast pumps
  9. think about boating all winter 😜

same here other than, between steps 5 and 6 i get it up to operating temp then pull the spark arrestor off and spray fogging oil into the throttle body until the engine stalls to effectively fog the cylinders.

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FS44Surfer    0
On 10/4/2020 at 3:41 PM, volzalum said:

With the XR550, you definitely need to drain both heat exchangers and the exhaust manifolds and the vDrive and the oil cooler if you do not run antifreeze through. I typically run RV antifreeze through mine (also FS44 with XR550) and leave it. One year I only ran 6 gallons through it (vs the normal 12 gallons) and did not drain afterwards. Had to replace both heat exchangers and both exhaust manifold elbows. Will not make that mistake again. 

Great, thanks for the info. Yes I am going to run antifreeze because you never know if you get all the water out. So it took 12 gallons? Did you run until it came out the exhaust ? Before running antifreeze do you drain the water first I assume? I’m trying to store a place that keeps heat at 55 but may not make it through the door at 8ft. Other option is a not heated option but either way I want to winterize. Just did oil yesterday...took a long time to get the oil out? One other question... is there a neutral lock on the throttle? Thank you!!

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InfinitySurf    306

Yes, you must drain all the water first before doing the AF. 5-6gal should be enough for it too start coming out of exhaust (it does on my ZR409 engine). Perhaps the 550 is different on that one.

Under the throttle, there is a neutral button

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volzalum    277

I don’t drain first on mine, I suck the antifreeze through while it is running. I just found that there are some places that water stays even draining, so I run 12 gallons just to be sure. The heater (if equipped) should be on the coolant side rather than on the fresh water side. Some folks drain and remove their impeller and then use a 12volt pump to put antifreeze through. If you are sucking the antifreeze through with engine running, I do not recommend draining the water first because it is harder on the impeller to create suction. 

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