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Jake707

Trailer Actuator Help

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Jake707    171

So the brake actuator master cylinder on my 2000 centurion went out and is all rusted inside. Took it all apart only to find out Atwood no longer makes the master cylinder I need (atwood 85841) and there’s not replacement?!

read somewhere that the only option is to replace the actuator assembly, but on my trailer it’s all welded in, not bolted in like the videos I’ve found. 
 

is my only option really to cut the welds, brake this actuator off and then install a generic actuator? Nobody has had issues with their older trailers? I couldn’t find anything online of similar issues. 

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Jake707    171

The Atwood unit I pulled out is actually angled along the top where all of these are flat. Not sure if I could build a type of wedge to angle them or not or if it matters. 
 

here’s a link for a pic since I can’t post them. This company doesn’t have it although it says available. 
 

https://bendtrailers.com/lippert-atwood-master-cylinder-85841/

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volzalum    277

You could also convert it to electric over hydraulic brakes (that's what my trailer has). This would get you brakes only when pressing the brake pedal regardless of vehicle movement. It also gives brakes when backing down the ramp which surge does not. 

This would work for drum brakes: https://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Actuator/Hydrastar/HBA-10.html?feed=npn&gclid=CjwKCAjwltH3BRB6EiwAhj0IUBJYWfnSYTT9ZlMBmH1IPIRnSzbnABf10Yt94LL_hbJKxJUYMbMi0BoCimsQAvD_BwE

This is the model mine has in it from BoatMate for Disc Brakes: https://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Actuator/Titan/T4813100.html

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Jake707    171

I spent a few hours taking the existing unit apart. It was rusted stiff. I broker out the wire wheel and wire brush and scrubbed most of the rust out and was able to break the piston free to finish disassembling it. Parts look pretty good once all the rust is knocked off. I think I’m going to try and re run it. I’ll have to make a gasket. Worth a try since every other options seems to be $600+ in conversions. 

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