Most efficient way to drain fuel tank?

mac19 · May 15, 2020

Thank you in advance for any advice! I have a 2012 sv233 and I did not run it last summer it sat in storage winterized the last 15-16month. I want to dewinterize it this weekend and change the oil etc. I’m wanting to drain the fuel that is currently in the tank and I’m looking for some insight on how to easily drain it? Also any additional insight you guys might have or precautions after an extended period of winterization prior to firing it up?

Respectfully-Mac19

MobEnzo · May 15, 2020

I don't know about draining the fuel. Maybe a siphon to get the bulk of it out? Otherwise I wonder if you can put something like stabil in to treat the old gas and also top off with fresh gas. Other item I would do for prep is change the impeller. Not sure what kind of shape it would be in after sitting and cheap insurance to just change.

InfinitySurf · May 15, 2020

If I was draining the fuel tank on my SV.... I would remove the floor panel and then either remove a fuel fill hose to get my siphon in there, or remove the fuel sender and use that opening (personally thinking this is easiest place where you can easily see inside the tank and if you tilt the bow up, be able to drain 99% of the old fuel).

Getting a siphon hose into the tank without opening up something will be difficult since about 16" below the fuel fill cap inside the fill hose, you have an anti-splash fitting with a flap and at least on my SV, the fill hose turns in way that would make it troublesome to get it all the way into the tank. Another option would be to remove the fuel fill hose on the bottom side of the anti-splash valve and put your siphon hose in from there.... problem with that is you wont be able to properly position your siphon hose and/or see to make sure all fuel gets removed.

I recently removed my fuel sender and it was a fairly easy process. Hopefully you stabilized the fuel before layup and by removing all the old fuel and putting in fresh, you can avoid the old fuel gunking up your fuel pumps and injectors. May be worth putting a cleaner in there as well? I have dealt with lots of ethenol fuel issues on carb engines (essentially turns to "sand" like material once it breaks down) but not specifically on an engine like this (I have a 2014 ZR409 in my SV244). Be sure you replace the spin on fuel/water separating filter.....as well as your FCC fuel filter. I agree that replacing the existing fuel is a smart thing to do before trying to start it....its a pain in the tush but much less so than firing it up with existing fuel and dealing with what will happen if it already went thru full phase separation

As far as precautions.... . think I would also change the trans and v-drive oils at the same time as the engine oil/filter. Impeller change of course.... and carefully check your belt for signs of wear. I would also grease any zerks and spray lubricant on all moving points. After you start....I would keep engine bay open, check for any water leaks or any strange noises....and make sure the engine gets fully up to operating temp and then comes down before driving anywhere. Thermostats should be fine.... if you do have the partial closed cooled ZR409, there are 2 thermostats. 1 for the raw water and 1 for the DEXCOOL on the closed cooling side.

Edited May 15, 2020 by InfinitySurf