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PondTuna    0

Hey everyone, new to the forums, I don't wish to whip a dead horse :) (I have researched for hours on here) but I haven't been able to find answers to questions about my recently acquired 2012 Enzo SV230 with Quick Fill ballast system.

This boat is bone stock with no rear sacks, just the stock Quick Fill 500# rear tanks, mid-ship and bow bags! The stock wave with a load of peeps and gear is of course "ok" but not amazing and I'm going to add some more bags in the rear lockers and possibly a bit of lead. Of course everyone has their preferred setup but I am seeking "clean and simple" without bags on seats etc. I just traded an 08 Enzo that I absolutely loved but I'm done filling and draining bricks and wrestling them off of the upholstery etc.

That being said I have turned this boat upside down looking for PNP connections with zero luck. I was hoping that I would be able to add either a couple of #750's or #1000 pounders in the rear lockers, hook them up and be done. So, a few questions.......

*Where are the PNP fittings "usually" located and is there a site, pictures  or video showing their approximate locations?

*If for some reason if this boat didn't come equipped with PNP is there a clean layout published somewhere for adding two bags to the rear lockers?

I need to set up for Port side surfing primarily but I do have some Darkside friends so I am going to be a nice guy :), and bag for them too. I would prefer a quick (ish) ballast transfer but I don't require maximum transfer speed if it requires a major system re-plumb. It currently has three main water inlets, one for the engine and two ballast inlet ports/pumps. I would be willing to add another pump to the center drain location if necessary.

Thanks for any help you can offer!





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InfinitySurf    299

My 2014 boat had to have the 2 rear PnP added when purchased in 2015 (I think until around 2015 the factory typically only did the bow PnP unless boat was ordered from them with rear plumbing). It requires adding the pumps (I have ballast puppies), wiring and switches as well as drilling the intake and vent lines. Its not real hard to do, just time consuming if you do it yourself and if its the first time drilling into your boat hull, it can be nerve wracking. You could start with adding the bags and using a throw-over pump for the summer... but it is quite nice to just flip a switch. I don't know of any sites except maybe the wakegarage DIY forum. Lots of cool projects over there.

@Wylie_Tunes has all the parts you would need at good prices and is an expert in ballast, electrical & audio. If you live in the NC area, he can do the work for you as well. He has done work on my boat a few times over the years, very knowledgeable.  

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bomoseen avy    45

Go for 1000# bags and hold on buying lead until you fool with it a bit. Listing vs. suckgate vs. tabs (if you anticipate using those) will make a difference in your lead requirements as well as if you are primarily towing or keep it at body of water

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PondTuna    0

Thanks guys, the boat will be kept on the slip all summer so the extra weight doesn't bug me from a trailer perspective but I really didn't want the extra lead weight in there all of the time either. Since this boat doesn't appear to be setup for plug and play I'll add two -1000's in the rear lockers on separate pumps/switches and be done with it. I appreciate the insight!

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