05 enzo sv230 prop issues what you guys run?

[Travis Taylor 0]

I noticed I am getting pretty bad prop burn. The previous owners put on an acme 1579 4 blade prop for surfing. Most websites recommend this prop for my boat ! Why would I get such bad prop burn? And what props are you guys running on an sv230 ? I want it to surf good. But also we wakeboard and tow a tube pretty hardcore lol do you guys think that tubing at higher speeds and hard throttle in the corners would cause the burn ? 

[Dreamer 96]

What is the gap between the prop and the hull? On my 07 SV230 I had about 1/2”

[Travis Taylor 0]

3 hours ago, Dreamer said:

What is the gap between the prop and the hull? On my 07 SV230 I had about 1/2”

I dont have exact measurement yet. But to me looks more than half and inch. I was told you need an inch gap and I feel i have an inch. But will know when I get the chance to get to my boat and measure 

[DrPringle 10]

Quit tubing 

[Travis Taylor 0]

1 minute ago, DrPringle said:

Quit tubing 

You think that is the issue ? 

[Travis Taylor 0]

On 7/4/2019 at 11:49 AM, Travis Taylor said:

I dont have exact measurement yet. But to me looks more than half and inch. I was told you need an inch gap and I feel i have an inch. But will know when I get the chance to get to my boat and measure 

For those wondering my prop gap between hull is 1/2".... acme 1579 is 13.5" stock was 13.25"

[InfinitySurf 302]

I think 5/8" - 3/4" is the closest that is recommended tho some have had 1/2" without any issue.

Running in shallow/sandy water can cause prop burn since it will stir up the sand and then prop "whips" it into the gelcoat causing the burn. If its thru the gelcoat you need to repair so exposed fiberglass that is no longer protected by the gelcoat does not get waterlogged.

You can install a "bubble" (can't remember the technical term), but its basically a concave piece that is inset into the bottom of the hull that gives you a bit more clearance and protects the boat since made of metal, gelcoat is installed over the bubble to give it finished look under hull (my SV244 has one of these from factory). I have also seen some people install a thin, flat metal plate above the prop to protect the gelcoat, but if not inset into hull that will take away from your clearance anyway and require smaller prop.

Without pics its hard to say for sure, but I would guess you need to get the smaller prop tho going to 13.25 from the existing 13.5 is only gonna give you an extra 1/8" clearance.

Here is another thot....have you checked your cutlass bearing inside the strut? If the cutlass bearing is really worn, the prop shaft will slop around inside the strut and potentially cause the prop to be even closer to the hull than the 1/2" you are measuring at rest. The strut is under the boat located just before where prop mounts, the drive shaft goes thru the strut and inside it is a bearing that is a wear item and over time will allow the shaft to "flop" around a bit. This will also throw off engine alignment over time. Its a PITA to replace the cutlass bearing, but wonder if its possible that its contributing to your issue on the prop burn. You can check cutlass bearing by visually looking at where shaft goes thru the strut on both sides, also grip the shaft and try to wiggle the entire shaft up/down and side/side. If its will slop around inside the strut at all, its needs replacement. The cutlass bearing is not very thick,  on my boat I have a 1 1/8" shaft and the bearing dimensions are 1.125" inside and 1.375 outside diameter.

To replace you have to remove the prop and the rudder (rudder removed so shaft will slid out) then uncouple the shaft from inside of the boat, some shafts have to be pressed off so you can then slid the shaft out. Then you usually have to carefully cut the bearings out using hacksaw blade so you can get them out of the strut since they are pressed in there tightly (some cutlass bearings are one piece and not sure which your boat would have.... but my boat has 2) bearings that are each 2" long and one goes at each end of the strut. After replacing the bearings you then have to re-align the engine. You can find some good utube videos of this online and a couple special tools will be needed for this repair. (Again tho, its purely speculation that this may be contributing to the prop burn issue and the slop may be allowing the prop to get even closer to the hull than the 1/2" you measured)

 

[superdtf 68]

Yes, stop tubing.

Edited July 16, 2019 by superdtf