Fi23 Mods

[Spiiina 0]

Hey man, I bought the ignition button as well, connected everything as the guide recommended and the red wire from the button to the white of the module and nothing happens during the green blinking stage.  Did you separate the purple wires that originally connected to the ignition or do they both stay wired to the Blue wire that goes to the module? Also, when you say connect the red wire from the switch, you do mean from the ignition switch and not the stereo switch, correct?

 

Thanks for your help!!

John

[EliteV 1]

On 10/24/2018 at 11:22 PM, lovetosurf said:

EliteV, Sorry for the late reply.

So, I did mine with flat brackets approximately 3” down and 3” in from the hinge side with trays out.

The top bracket are 90 degrees and approx 12” from the hinges along the center rail.

I used a scrap piece of metal (old triangular door hinge I think) to make the flat bracket to get the connecting ball to sit 3” down from the top. Then marked the location on the tray and drilled a hole for the ball connector to pass through. 

Hope that helps, Cheers.

Hey lovetosurf, is there anyway I can get a close up picture of the bracket set up for the lift gate where it is mounted in the tray area? The top mount is pretty straight forward but the one in the tray has me guessing. Thanks a ton

[EliteV 1]

Scratch that I got it figured out. Thanks bro!

[lovetosurf 48]

On 10/27/2018 at 7:04 PM, Spiiina said:

Hey man, I bought the ignition button as well, connected everything as the guide recommended and the red wire from the button to the white of the module and nothing happens during the green blinking stage.  Did you separate the purple wires that originally connected to the ignition or do they both stay wired to the Blue wire that goes to the module? Also, when you say connect the red wire from the switch, you do mean from the ignition switch and not the stereo switch, correct?

 

Thanks for your help!!

John

Sorry for the late reply, you probably figured it out already.The blue and white (12v) wires were both connected to the purple/red wire on mine. Sounds like you did it correctly, red from the ignition switch to white on the module. Cheers

[Spiiina 0]

Still haven’t figured it out unfortunately... So do you have anything hooked up to the red wire on the module? I’m sure I’m overthinking this and it’s something ridiculous I’m missing lol. Thanks again for your help!

[EliteV 1]

Im with spiiina on this one. Ignition module is like brain surgery to my simple mind. 

 

Really trying to determine best place to mount the module at the moment. Then the balls to cut the old ignition wires to attach them to module. And lastly a good place to attach the ground/kill switch

 

 

any advice?

[Spiiina 0]

So after thinking I was crazy, I finally broke out the meter to determine that the module I received wasn’t working as it should. Obviously no one’s fault but they gladly sent me a new module and everything is working as expected now. 

@EliteV be sure to take pics of everything before  disconnecting the ignition wires. Finding a ground is a bit challenging but when you open the bow seat on the driver’s side, you’ll have a couple options to tap into. Going to add a pic (which may not be helpful at all btw) but at worst you should be able to tap into the red alarm speaker in the blue highlight box. The yellow box has the wire that I actually spliced into as it was a thicker gauge wire and figured it would act as a better ground.

The key point of getting the radio to turn on as lovetosurf mentioned is to clip the Red wire connected to the Stereo dash switch/button and connect the white wire from the module, to the red wire that goes to the stereo switch itself. I capped off the other end of the red wire for good measure. Don’t cut the red wire too close to the switch like I did or else you’ll have a tough time connecting it to the accessory/white wire. Added a pic for this too  

Hopefully this doesn’t make it more confusing but let me know if you have any questions and I’ll do my best to answer them.

P.S. Having trouble with pic sizes will make a separate post for them   

 

[Spiiina 0]

[Spiiina 0]

[euro2012 6]

Is there a way to keep the key and just have a push button to start/stop the motor?  It’s really annoying that the screen turns off and has to reset when the motor is turned off.  It doesn’t sound like this changes with this setup, correct?

[EliteV 1]

I know its possible to keep the key functioning for the kill switch/security purposes. Even seen some people have it relocated but the screen turning off is how the boat is set up from the factory. Is it possible ? yes probably but I think it would mess with diagnositcs the computer runs everytime it reboots. I think you can wire it the way you want it tho

[Paul Blart 0]

You shouldn't be shutting your engine off at anytime because it will hydro lock. 

[euro2012 6]

That seems a little extreme, no?

 

I’ve been in contact with Erik at wakeblaster.  He says that there are options on how to install his kit that do or don’t retain the key.  I’ll update when I get it.

[InfinitySurf 302]

16 hours ago, Paul Blart said:

You shouldn't be shutting your engine off at anytime because it will hydro lock. 

That is a broad blanket statement, why do you think this?

This is what was posted on the Centurion/Supreme FB page about it....

Passive Hydrolock is when water is siphoned through the boat’s exhaust system, enters a cylinder in the engine and results in a non-start. This is possible on any marine vessel powered by a combustible engine with exhaust risers that sit below the water line. Once the boat is run and the engine heated, if it is allowed to sit for over 5-10 minutes of “cool” time without emptying the ballast or while the exhaust risers remain below the water line the potential for Passive Hydrolock exists. When the exhaust risers are allowed to sit below the waterline during the engine cooling process it is possible water can siphon through the exhaust system into an open cylinder causing a non-start.

The solution is very simple! Make it a rule that if you are shutting down for over 5-10 minutes to swim and play, empty your rear ballast first. Centurion makes it extremely easy if you own a boat equipped with RAMFILL! Take 90 seconds and drain off the RAMFILL tanks if you are going to sit for over 5-10 minutes. If you are merely swapping out riders it is not necessary to drain your tanks. If your boat is not equipped with RAMFILL and equipped with pumps, simply drain off the rear bags or tanks before shutting down.

Don’t let this ruin your day /weekend /vacation ! ??

Be smart and be educated .

[Hein 63]

Great that this thread popped back up.  Gas strut mod for rear shoe storage areas is a nice idea. Rather than the push button ignition/start I might just connect the audio system to a constant 12V source and have a switch to toggle between that and the factory configuration.

These engines are so quiet, we just leave it running when swapping riders. Thinking that would be easier on the starter and reduce engine wear from low oil pressure at startup. We would definitely drain the ramfill if sitting for more than 15 minutes. I am told that they did add a flapper valve which should slow the water running into the exhaust. Maybe some kind of sensor  with warning beeper would be prudent.

All the best, Hein

Edited May 3, 2019 by Hein

[Lovinglife 0]

Great idea on the struts.  Be ingested to see a close up of how you fastened the bottom strut so clean. 

[Bboy 0]

Hello, I am new to the group and can’t find where to start a new post. My family just purchased a 2019 Fi23 and took it out for the first time and it drove great for about 15 minutes. We dropped everything off at the beach and we went to go back out and the boat won’t go in gear. We put it in neutral and then took it out and put it into gear but it just continued to act like it was in neutral. We have talked to the dealer and I think they called the manufacturer but just wanted to see if anyone else has experienced this! Thank you for any advise or experience you have had! 

[SgtBilko 0]

Have not had any issues with the transmission on my 18.  I really would like to do the ignition mod though.  The stock setup is incredibly obnoxious.  I really want to hinge the interior bench seats as well.  Any idea if the substructure would be strong enough to put a mechanism where the small port forward cushion could flip up into a seat back like on the new models?

[h20king 794]

On 5/10/2019 at 7:05 PM, Bboy said:

Hello, I am new to the group and can’t find where to start a new post. My family just purchased a 2019 Fi23 and took it out for the first time and it drove great for about 15 minutes. We dropped everything off at the beach and we went to go back out and the boat won’t go in gear. We put it in neutral and then took it out and put it into gear but it just continued to act like it was in neutral. We have talked to the dealer and I think they called the manufacturer but just wanted to see if anyone else has experienced this! Thank you for any advise or experience you have had! 

More than likely not the trans but the sending or receiving unit. The throttle is digital not cable. 

[h20king 794]

9 hours ago, SgtBilko said:

Have not had any issues with the transmission on my 18.  I really would like to do the ignition mod though.  The stock setup is incredibly obnoxious.  I really want to hinge the interior bench seats as well.  Any idea if the substructure would be strong enough to put a mechanism where the small port forward cushion could flip up into a seat back like on the new models?

If you have a 18 it's easy just order the hinge from your dealer and install. It's a factory option in 20.