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chenige

2000 elite alternator replacement?

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chenige    84

Alternator died today. Looks like original. Noticed hatch ram would not go up while out which is a sign of low battery. Then voltmeter went to 0 and boat started beeping.

 

I have added one Johnson and 2 Wetsounds amps. I think I should replace with higher output alternator. Recommendations? anyone with an old boat replaced theirs?

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daz28iroc    73

I had the same thing just happen to me i think. Run the newly installed sub for 1/2 hour and then. Low voltage and stumbles at idle with a solid beep. But runs good when in gear. Saw voltage sitting down around 11.5 at idle.

I was told to get better copper cables for amp and run a smaller diameter alternator pulley. And trickle charge batteried when parked

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My voltage gauge never gets above 12. I think the gauge sucks I put in a digital one and it reads 13-13.5 off the accessory 12v

 

I'll be following for part numbers also when mine bites the dust I want a high amp replacement.

Edited by Tommywalton1974

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chenige    84

Called mercruiser and they said they could have used two different alternator mounts so I need to look at motor to see which it is. I did have the motor serial number.

 

Pretty sure original is 65 amp and will buy 75 amp if I can find one. Arco has a high output 75. 65055. Just need to confirm it will fit. Arcomarine.com. Pg 52 of catalog.

 

I do trickle charge.

Edited by chenige

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Called mercruiser and they said they could have used two different alternator mounts so I need to look at motor to see which it is. I did have the motor serial number.

 

Pretty sure original is 65 amp and will buy 75 amp if I can find one. Arco has a high output 75. 65055. Just need to confirm it will fit. Arcomarine.com. Pg 52 of catalog.

 

I do trickle charge.

Which engine do you have? GM alternators have either 1 or 2 ears depending on v or serpentine belt. Let me know what you have I'll save the part number mine is 9 years old. Thanks

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chenige    84

315 mpi tournament ski serpentine.

 

Mercruiser could not identify which alternator with my serial number. 0L305987

 

I will call them back today and see if serpentine narrows it down to one alternator.

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chenige    84

post-5486-0-84303900-1471348277_thumb.jpg

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chenige    84

Went to the Mercruiser site and there are two choices for my serial number. One has a 2" mounting tab and the other is 1". Both have serpentine pulley. So I have to confirm by actually looking at my alternator mounting.

 

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/mercury_marine_parts/sn/0L305987

 

iboat prices below, would search for better prices:

 

Original Mando 807653T 65 amp with 2" mounting tab

Arco 65055 - 75 amp ($234)

Arco 60060 - 65 amp ($175)

Arco 60121 - 105 amp (has single pulley, not sure it really will fit our boats, would need to call Arco) ($347)

Sierra 18-5960 - 65 amp ($183)

807653T -65 amp ($285)

 

Original Delco 862031T 65 amp with 1" mounting tabs.

Arco 20800 - 70 amp ($207)

Arco 60122 - 105 amp (has single pulley, not sure it really will fit our boats, would need to call Arco) ($260)

Sierra 18-6293 - 70 amp ($204)

862031T1 - 70 amp ($300)

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chenige    84

post-5486-0-08211600-1471352671_thumb.jpg

 

Arco alternators.

 

 

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chenige    84

Confirmed that the 807653T is what is in my boat so I am looking for a 65055 Arco with 75 amp.

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vreeland274    0

I have a 2000 also cant get the gauge to above 11, everything looks okay bought an optima battery conditioner, both blue tops are up to 13.2 v but gauge is still low, and yes i"m running amps and tower speakers, it seems to drop dramatically  when i kick on blower drops to 10-11. nav lights drop it a bit too. I have 2 batteries and selector switch when were surfing i have it to both batteries and floating listening to music i manually switch it to 1?????? I pulled the alternator and took it to a shoo they tested it and said it was fine? Boat starts and runs good, but I don't think its charging correctly any thoughts please share???? Im confused?

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TexP51    6

Something to check.  The Mercruiser MPI is notorious for low voltage alternator output coming from slipping serpentine.  The water pump takes quite a bit of leverage to turn over (not the engine’s Chevy water pump, but the mercruiser lake water pump) and worn belt or just a bit of slack will let the belt slip when it gets bilge water slapped on it at the lowest pulley (big harmonic balancer/crank at the bottom).  Usually looks something like engine temp is a bit higher running hard, and voltage drops off at idle.  Gotta be crazy tight.  Might check that out.  

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TexP51    6

Couple of other things regarding alternators - ther’re expensive no mater how you look at it, but spend a little more and do it right.  The alternator no matter the size, creates a current field and ours have a built in regulator to hold voltage output to around 12.8-13.5 volts.  Really low batteries might get it to near 14 v output, but from there everything is in your battery wiring gauge size, and your battery setup. Kinds like a hose and a holding tank. Battery (holding tank) can only accept current so fast based on wiring (hose).  I find best practice is same type batteries, and highest cranking amps you can afford.  While cranking amps equate to amp/hours, and that is like how deep/big your holding tank is.  I keep it simple:

- Recommend fresh or good condition batteries

- New serpentine belt every other year

- Suggest matched set batteries in highest CCA -  whatever you prefer.  I’d rather have lead/acid 850cca over blue top 650 gel for example.  

- Use good battery maintainer when you come in from the lake so your charge is full when you start out

- 65a-85a alternator should be fine

- Add another battery before going to crazy sized wiring and alternator 

 

 

 

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volzalum    279
2 hours ago, TexP51 said:

 

- Suggest matched set batteries in highest CCA -  whatever you prefer.  I’d rather have lead/acid 850cca over blue top 650 gel for example. 

 

 

Just curious where you ge the 650 from? The D31 are 900 CCA and the D27 are 800 CCA?

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TexP51    6
19 hours ago, volzalum said:

Just curious where you ge the 650 from? The D31 are 900 CCA and the D27 are 800 CCA?

 

19 hours ago, volzalum said:

Just curious where you ge the 650 from? The D31 are 900 CCA and the D27 are 800 CCA?

 

19 hours ago, volzalum said:

Just curious where you ge the 650 from? The D31 are 900 CCA and the D27 are 800 CCA?

 

19 hours ago, volzalum said:

Just curious where you ge the 650 from? The D31 are 900 CCA and the D27 are 800 CCA?

 

19 hours ago, volzalum said:

Just curious where you ge the 650 from? The D31 are 900 CCA and the D27 are 800 CCA?

19 hours ago, volzalum said:

Just curious where you ge the 650 from? The D31 are 900 CCA and the D27 are 800 CCA?

Was trying to make the point to consider buying most CCA/Ah and Reserve Capacity that’s reasonably affordable.  Option is to use a flooded with high CCA/Ah over just buying a gel or AGM.  Flooded lead is good choice if you use your boat a lot, or have a maintainer.  The Gel and AGM offerings store so much better than a flooded lead in boats not used much, and now here come the new marine lithiums - suppose to have 8-10 year life - but pricey.  Referencing Optima was poor example, as they do have high CCA these days - but my opinion cost a bit more.  Some folks run a starter and deep cycle combo battery setup.  I like the newer dual-purpose batteries are cool. My 2002 elite-V had two ancient Interstate auto 24 series in it.  I went old-school and replaced both w/ two Tractor Supply 24MS for less than $200 total.  Each had like 1000CCA and decent reserve capacity, made sense for me as I have a nice dual-bank battery maintainer on board.  I get it’s not everybody’s style, but worked for my budget.  

19 hours ago, volzalum said:

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volzalum    279

OK. I just wanted to make sure that Optima alone is not a bad battery. Every battery should be measured on it CCA and maximum immediate flow capability. I personally ran Optima D31's on my last boat and they served as dual use batteries. When I replace the batteries on my current boat at the beginning of next season, I will replace with the Optima D31's. But that is because I have a custom Centurion triple battery tray that I had made for my last boat.

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TexP51    6

Optima are solid today.  You are in good shape.  Anglers on my lake love the D31M blue tops, and Academy Sports now sells them - should make it easier if you have to get a warranty claim.  Two batteries are hard enough, but Triple bats is going to be a stiff bill!  I ran 54 hours last year, and probably another 25hrs floating w/ stereo on - 15” sub, 600w amp driving  6 interior speakers and 6 on the tower.  To help I did change all our interior and running light bulbs over to led, and a more efficient whale bilge pump.  With all that, I’m really hoping my battery maintainer stretches the life on our current bats for years to come.  

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