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MobEnzo

Stereo Upgrade

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MobEnzo    48

I know another stereo upgrad thread, but I'm a bit of a newbie at this and have questions...

 

First off, I'm primarily planning to upgrade the tower speakers so that we can hear them behind the boat surfing. I'd also like to add a dedicated battery for the stereo. We surf 95% of the time and just hang out on the boat or tied up. I don't need a crazy loud system. Sounds like Rev10s are the way to go (that's the easy part).

 

What exactly am I getting myself into? :guitar:

 

My current setup is no amp or sub - Kicker in boats and Skylon tower speakers. Overall I think the system sounds fine - it's not bumping bass, but it's enough. I like quality sound, but I'm not an audiophile... I'm not planning on adding a sub but would like the zone control that the 420 offers. Currently, we have super loud bow and can't hear the towers when behind the boat.

 

On to the questions and my findings thus far.

  1. Add a 2nd battery, I know I need Blue Sea Switch like this? What else is involved hear from a wiring standpoint? I assume I need to move the stereo power source to the new battery? I've never had dual batteries so any advice on setup/charging/etc. would be great.
  2. Pair of Rev 10s on the tower. Will my current speaker mounts work, or should I plan on the X mount for Evolution tower. It looks like I can't order without a mount selected so I may have answered that... They're also on back order.
  3. Amp or Amps? I read on a more recent thread that the HTX4 would do nice for the Rev 10s? Do I need one, or a bigger one, for the in boats if I want the 420 zone control?
  4. 420, seems straight-forward, but question above about amp for in boats above.
  5. Should I redo any of the tower speaker wiring? It currently seems a little screwy with literal speaker wire coiled up in the base of the tower.
  6. Is there specific marine wiring I should be using for Blue Sea, Amp/s, and 420?

Sorry that's A LOT of questions, I appreciate the help!

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Wylie_Tunes    138

1) yes, thats a great switch. Simple yet effective. You will need to make some custom cables, both on the positive and negative side. May want to consult with the retailer/installer on a wiring scheme thats specific to your application, but you dont want to wire the stereo battery direct, as that circumvents the switch you just put in.

2) You need to order one of the 3 mounting options, X, fixed tube clamp or swivel mount. You may need an additional mounting adapter depending on the tower, but dont count on anything from the current pods being reusable. If you are wanting white, they are looking at early July for the next supply.

3) Yes, the Syn-DX4 is the ideal amp for a single pair of Rev-10. I would also consider an amp for the in-boats and a sub. Even a small 10" with mild wattage can make a world of difference in how a system sounds.

4) To do any type of one control, you will need all speakers on external amps. I would look into the new WS-220 4 zone controller. This would give you tower, main cabin, bow and future woofer one.

5) For amp wattage like the Syn-DX4, I suggest 12ga cabling

6) no, but tinned marine is a plus. Otherwise, use quality 100% OFC and use the proper gauge for the potential loads. Also need proper circuit protection. I prefer marine circuit breakers over automotive amp fuse holders, depending on where the batteries are located.

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truekaotik    461

The blue sea will work as a switch. Wiring you should get from your WS authorized retailer, if they are even capable of proper installs.

 

The Xmount is what you want for one pair. That is all you need on a Evo tower and again your WS retailer should know this and help you.

 

The HTX4 will work but I recommend the SynDX4 over it.

 

Adding a 420 is a good idea on these boats but you need to add a amplifier for the Inboats to get the full control. The reason your bow speakers are so loud compared to the rear 4 is due to the way they rig it up on the head unit. Getting these off the crappy head units power will give you better adjustability when tuning and better SQ. This will allow you to set the bow speakers then set the rear speakers but this has nothing to do with a zone control but more to do with using a amplifier to adjust them properly. This will also give them the proper crossover frequencies so they last longer and sound better over all.

 

Yes you should run 12g wire in the tower for the Rev10's, the factory 14g is just a hair light for my taste.

 

T-Spec marine wiring is what you want to use. V10 series.....

Edited by truekaotik
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MobEnzo    48

Thanks for the responses! I guess didn't think through the switch question. It makes sense to not wire directly, but just switch to the battery that I want on when floating to save one for starting.

 

True, thanks for the explanation on the 420 vs zone control. If I'm understanding you correctly, with proper amp configuration/tuning the 420 isn't a necessity, but nice to have.

 

What do you recommend for in boat amplifier? How are the Kicker KXM series amplifiers? I can get a great deal on them, but assume they're not in the same league.

 

Wylie, thanks for the reminder on any fuse or breaker blocks. It looks like the wet wire kits come with fuses.

 

I'll call wetsounds today to see what kind a dealer I have around me. Was originally planning to order direct. I plan to do the installing, but like to do things right.

 

Thanks again!

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Wylie_Tunes    138

Mob,

 

With all speakers on external amps, the head unit fade can be used to adjust the volume balance between the tower (on rear for example) and in-boats (on front for example). Its not as effective as independent volume control, and sometimes fade can be buried in a sub menu as well as not accessible from a remote. This forces you to reach across the boat to the head unit and scroll through a menu to make an adjustment.

 

A device like the Wet Sounds WS-420 or new WS-220, puts instant independent one volume right at the captain's fingertips.

 

The Kicker KXM series marine amps are solid. They dont offer the big power like a wet sounds, but the build quality is every bit as good. The head guy in the Kicker marine division is a boater himself. The design and build the amps using ABYC and NMMA guidelines. With two pair of speakers, the KXM400.2 is the best bang for the buck. However, id suggest KXM400.4 so you can have the ability to adjust the bow pair independent of the main cabing. It also allows you to add a 3rd pair of in-boats later. Now, if you are going to do a sub, consider the KXM800.5. It will drive 2-3 pair of in-boats and deliver up to 400W rms to a 2 ohm woofer. That makes for a solid well rounded system.

 

Wet Sounds does offer a circuit breaker, a 60 and 120 amp.

 

Definitely seek out a local dealer. They can help you from the design phase, through the installation to the tuning. Many will also offer package deals.

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MobEnzo    48

Thanks Wylie!

 

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

 

 

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h20king    794

Ok you want a nice system but don't want to be the loudest boat on the water. If you plan to go with REV 10's but want to save money on the amps go with the wetsounds HTX amps. My suggestion would be a htx 4'for the REV 10's this will give you 300 watts rms to each rev although not powering them to full potential they will be loud and clean and you WILL be happy. For your inboats go with the htx6 it will run your inboats and allow you to add a sub after you hear your system. Spend the extra cash for a 420 sq and your done. JMTC it will be a loud clean affordable system

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truekaotik    461

They (Kicker) are not the same league power wise for the system you want. H is steering you in the right direction for value and good, clean output.... Now for Inboats and the sub, the Kicker 800.5 would be the only amp for value I would choose, but Wet Sounds HTX series, even the HTX6 will be a vast improvement. The KXM 400.4 would run the tower pods and sound good when tuned and I have done this. I just feel it leaves some output and SQ on the table. 300 watts is the least I would send to rev10's. As for the 420 or 220, yes, it is nice but not needed once you tune the system as a whole, balancing everything. After this, you will not need control on the bow as it will be cohesive front to back done right. Now, the 420 will add a line driver, seperate tower/inboat/sub controls and a mic which is what I would add period. :)

Edited by truekaotik
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truekaotik    461

I assumed you had 6 inboat speakers so please clarify the amount of inboat 6.5" speakers you currently have?

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MobEnzo    48

Great info! I was noticing the kickers do not have the same output as WS. I have 6 in boat speakers, 2 in both main cabin cup holders and 2 in the bow. I do like the idea of getting an amp big enough leaving me the option to add a sub. For my own understanding, are there cons to mix and match amps? For example, KXM 800.5 for in boats and SDX4 for Rev10s vs. complete HTX series. Don't think I want to drop the coin on two SDX's. Once again, thanks for all the info!

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truekaotik    461

No issue with that in my eyes... I know you meant the HTX...

With that set up... Make sure the woofer is 2ohm SVC so you get the max out of the 5th channel of the Kicker.

Edited by truekaotik

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Wylie_Tunes    138

 

 

I was noticing the kickers do not have the same output as WS. I have 6 in boat speakers,

Depends on the actual application. Kicker offers a 1200W marine mono amp. Wet Sounds SD-2 can be bridged for 1200W. The Wet Sounds HTX6 and Kicker KXM800.5 are the same price. With 3 pair of in-boats and a sub, the output would be nearly identical. The HTX-6 can deliver 300W rms to a sub. It does low-pass but not a true mono woofer chnl. The KXM800.5 has a dedicated mono chnl will deliver 400W rms to a woofer and offers subsonic filter. Not an audible difference between 300 and 400, however, the added head room of the 400 can be a plus. If you ran 3 pair of in-boats on the remaining 4 chnls, you would 50W rms to each speaker from the KXM800.5. The HTX-6 would deliver up to 75W rms ea to two pair of speakers and have up to 110 for the last pair, likely the bow speakers. but, you likely gain them down to match the main cabin level, or even lower as some like to have the bow as a quite zone. Not an audible difference between 50W and 75W, but again, the head room is a plus.

 

So, both have are nearly identical in so many ways. There are benefits to both, depending on the final plan. If you are going to do the sub now, the KXM800.5 makes the most sense right now. If you are not going with a sub now, go with the HTX-6 and run the 6 in-boats on their own dedicated amp chnl. Later on, you can either relocate one pair to the other chnls and free up two for a mild woofer, or, leave it as is and add a dedicated woofer amp like the HTX-1.

 

The only con to mix matched amps, is looks.

 

A 4 ohm dual voice coil woofer will work on the KXM800.5 also

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DarksideR    1,678

Gonna kinda hijack this thread, but I think the info will be relevant.

 

I picked up the Rev10's with the swivel clamps. The speaker side of the clamp has the plugin for the speaker plus 4 thin colored wires which I assume is for the light rings. Yet the tower side of the clamp only has the speaker wire ends... What gives?

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Chexi    36

First, I am surprised that you need to replace your tower speakers to hear them for wakesurfing. Wakeboarding, yes, but you should be able to hear yours just for wakesurfing (if they were setup correctly). If money is a concern, I would start with the amps and WS420 and see how that goes before investing in Rev 10s. And for that matter, I have a pair of Rev 8s on my old super air and they sound great, surfing or wakeboarding.

 

You may want to check out my album and upgrade threads on planetnautique.com. I think I have a wiring diagram I put together in my album and should have lots of pictures for both my 2000 SAN and my 1999 Air, both of which I did a lot of stereo and battery wiring on.

 

That brings us to the battery. I highly recommend using an AGM battery. It looks like Sears discontinued its Die Hard Platinum AGM marine batteries, which is too bad, because they were fantastic, rebadged Odyssey military spec beasts. I have 2 in my old super air. I would think you can still get the Odyssey ones, but they will be even more expensive.

 

You can use just a battery switch, and you can switch it to your spare / second battery when you are sitting. But with that system, you can only charge one battery (with the alternator) at a time. Consider using the Blue Seas isolator / combiner setup. I put that system in both of my prior boats. Works great.

 

If you are going to do this yourself, know that it is more time consuming and more involved than you might think. I strongly recommend that you read and reread and reread again the information at bcae1.com. There are a lot of things you could mess up, including safety issues that could burn up your boat and family, so be careful and use the correct wire gauge and fuse properly.

 

Finally, for marine wire, especially battery cabling, check out genuinedealz.com. Best pricing I could ever find, and high quality, made to order, tinned marine cable.

Edited by Chexi

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Chexi    36

Correction, I had optima gel batteries in my 99 Air. I switched to Die Hard Platinum AGMs in my 2000 SAN and prefer the latter.

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Wylie_Tunes    138

Gonna kinda hijack this thread, but I think the info will be relevant.

 

I picked up the Rev10's with the swivel clamps. The speaker side of the clamp has the plugin for the speaker plus 4 thin colored wires which I assume is for the light rings. Yet the tower side of the clamp only has the speaker wire ends... What gives?

If you are going to add the LED ring option, you need to also get the TC3-S 6-Pin kt and swap out the 2 wire connector in the tower side for the 6 wire.

 

@ Chexi

 

Not a fan of Optima batteries also, but they are an AGM, not a gel.

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MobEnzo    48

No issue with that in my eyes... I know you meant the HTX...

With that set up... Make sure the woofer is 2ohm SVC so you get the max out of the 5th channel of the Kicker.

To clarify, was referencing two Syn DX is what I likely wouldn't drop th coin for. I'll price out a few options.

 

@Chexi, thanks for the additional info. I'm not a stranger to electronics, but have and will definitely do a lot of reading beforehand. The thought did cross my mind to get everything isolated with appropriate amp control and 420 to see if that helps. But, also think it would be nice to go the whole nine yards with Revs. I did notice over the weekend, that my port tower speaker was not working. I'm really not sure how long it hasn't. I checked last night and the wiring I thought was for the speakers is not connected to anything (I'll double check this). The plug in the tower base on the port side was undone and when I reconnected that the speaker worked.

 

@Wylie, thanks for the additional amp input!

 

@Dark, damn you! J/k all good man.

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DarksideR    1,678

If you are going to add the LED ring option, you need to also get the TC3-S 6-Pin kt and swap out the 2 wire connector in the tower side for the 6 wire.

 

Seriously? Damnit. Ok, thanks for the info

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h20king    794

Dark I would not worry about led's. I had a bad strip on one of my tower rings and have been waiting almost two months for them to be in Stock. They are on backorder. Supply seems to be a big problem for wetsounds lately.

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MobEnzo    48

Is this normal? Seems like someone may have done some work at one point. The tower speakers have speaker wire going into the tower. The plug shown in the port side pic is the one that was unplugged. I can't seem to get it fully pushed together.

 

Port side wires not connected to anything.

cdad13425381a55933a2e3cc6ee07c30.jpg

 

Port side at tower base.

371a68be0759a4d86094e72322b79507.jpg

 

Starboard side with one speaker wire not connected.

6bcb0f28a56a4f10f3721c5e63206f43.jpg

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truekaotik    461

That's not factory that I've seen...

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DarksideR    1,678

How do I hook up a pair of rev10's to the xm15.4 bridged? RCA split to front and rear? Left and right speaker wires to the set screws I have backed out in pic?

 

post-848-0-97455500-1466725041_thumb.jpegpost-848-0-32548400-1466725057_thumb.jpeg

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truekaotik    461

No Hablo espanial???

Haha

That will work without me Looking up the manual...

Edited by truekaotik
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volzalum    237

How do I hook up a pair of rev10's to the xm15.4 bridged? RCA split to front and rear? Left and right speaker wires to the set screws I have backed out in pic?

In 2 channel mode don't you use just front inputs and hook bridged like 2nd picture?

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DarksideR    1,678

In 2 channel mode don't you use just front inputs and hook bridged like 2nd picture?

I've been trying to figure that out.

Why is there an "output" set of rca plugs??? Maybe that's where you go for two channel. But output doesn't make sense.

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