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InfinitySurf    302

Sucks when prop gets dinged. Are they just repairing your dinged up prop and changing the cup? Nettle Props out of Austin TX does a great job, I bought a new one from them and they repaired one for me that looked brand new when done. 

Mods are looking good! You should tint that bad boy....always looks extra awesome on black boats and helps keep some of the heat off the dash, especially if you use the ceramic tint

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Hein    63

We purchased a new one (with more cup) and will contact Nettle about fixing the bent one. Thanks for the referral. I did call Acme for an explanation of cup which was helpful.  Based on my understanding,  I think it equates to thickening an airfoil to create more lift so more better hole shot and more top end.  There will be more load on the engine at a given RPM. So the question is which prop will better fit the torque curve.  - I guess.  Main reason to go with the slightly different prop is to experience the difference first hand.  I'll be sure to report back.

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InfinitySurf    302
40 minutes ago, Hein said:

We purchased a new one (with more cup) and will contact Nettle about fixing the bent one. Thanks for the referral. I did call Acme for an explanation of cup which was helpful.  Based on my understanding,  I think it equates to thickening an airfoil to create more lift so more better hole shot and more top end.  There will be more load on the engine at a given RPM. So the question is which prop will better fit the torque curve.  - I guess.  Main reason to go with the slightly different prop is to experience the difference first hand.  I'll be sure to report back.

Just an FYI....if you bought the new prop from Nettles, they give you $50 off on a repair. They have done some great things with props messing with the cup...my "torque" props will pull all my weight easily and still give me 40mph on top end. Some years ago you could do one or the other, not both.

Just so you know, if you like what the cup does on the new prop (or not and want something different), Nettles can also change the cup to your liking when they do the repair so you have a good spare. Wakemakers has some decent pricing on props too but I have found Nettles to be the cheapest for the ones I use.

NettlesProps.com...512-837-7707

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Hein    63

Justin at Sewlong suggested I pinch off and mark the top, send it to them and they'll quickly rework it to improve the fit. They also are willing to refund the cost of the brackets we did not use.

Thank you, Sewlong.  You are the greatest.

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On 5/21/2016 at 11:30 PM, Hein said:

I designed some cowls for the side swipe ports to help reduce exhaust noise. These are 3D printed by Shapeways. We tried version 1 last year but they fell off because I hurriedly attached them with silicon sealant. The noise was less but we didn't get a chance to fully test with them. Version 2 below is attached internally with small angle brackets held on by the screws in the sideswipe bezel. And then the perimeter is sealed with urethane adhesive. Hopefully they'll stay put this time so we can make a proper evaluation. I am hoping these will keep the exhaust gasses submerged so we won't have switch the exhaust to just one side.

 

sideswipe_cowl_v2.jpg

What is the size of your side swipe?  I am interested in your cowls.  I measured the chrome on my side swipe at 9 9/16 by 5 1/8.  Was that what yours was?

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On 5/21/2016 at 11:30 PM, Hein said:

I designed some cowls for the side swipe ports to help reduce exhaust noise. These are 3D printed by Shapeways. We tried version 1 last year but they fell off because I hurriedly attached them with silicon sealant. The noise was less but we didn't get a chance to fully test with them. Version 2 below is attached internally with small angle brackets held on by the screws in the sideswipe bezel. And then the perimeter is sealed with urethane adhesive. Hopefully they'll stay put this time so we can make a proper evaluation. I am hoping these will keep the exhaust gasses submerged so we won't have switch the exhaust to just one side.

 

sideswipe_cowl_v2.jpg

What is the size of your side swipe?  I am interested in your cowls.  I measured the chrome on my side swipe at 9 9/16 by 5 1/8.  Was that what yours was?

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Hein    63

Good call to verify. I have the trim plate as an ellipse 5.200 x 7.560 so quite a bit shorter than yours.  Can you post a photo? I can modify the model pretty easily but it's still nice to print a paper template to check the fit before printing parts.

Edited by Hein

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18 hours ago, Hein said:

Good call to verify. I have the trim plate as an ellipse 5.200 x 7.560 so quite a bit shorter than yours.  Can you post a photo? I can modify the model pretty easily but it's still nice to print a paper template to check the fit before printing parts.

Here are some pics... let me one of you need more. 

20180523_174544.jpg

20180523_174619.jpg

20180523_174631.jpg

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Hein    63

Download this file:  http://www.impact3d.com/sideswipe_bezel.pdf

print at 100% scale, cut out and see how it lines up with your bezel.

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Hein    63
26 minutes ago, Maxpowers1207 said:

I cut it out and it looked good height wise. But seemed about 3/16 short width wise. 

Can you post a photo? Did you check the print out to see if was printed at full scale in both directions?

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16 hours ago, Hein said:

Can you post a photo? Did you check the print out to see if was printed at full scale in both directions?

I just reprinted it 2 more times.  The file I downloaded came out as a PDF that was set for "fit page", which was 94.  I increased that to 100% and it looked like by height and width moved.  I will get pictures for you tonight when I get home from work.  

Thanks again for double checking this...I think I'm doing it right, but have no experience with CNC

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21 hours ago, Hein said:

Can you post a photo? Did you check the print out to see if was printed at full scale in both directions?

Here are the pictures.   I checked again and it seems like I printed it at 100%.  But then again,  I do juvenile probation work and engineering is foreign to me. 

20180530_192943.jpg

20180530_192940.jpg

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Hein    63

Forgot to ask about the holes. I have a lot of projects going. Carefully punch those out to see if they line up. Sorry for all the back an forth. Prefer we continue the conversation via email.  Hein  at  DIYvan  .   com

All the best,

Hein

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Hein    63

installing our new prop.  My method is to put on the puller, tighten the nut to put some tension on it and then gently heat the propeller with a propane torch until it expands enough to pop loose. Works great and no need to really crank down on the puller nut or bang on anything with a hammer.

New prop was not very well de-burred so I'll clean up the sharp edges with some 200 grit.

Edited by Hein

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Hein    63

new_prop_installed.png

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Hein    63

Having a great time on the river so far this summer.  Little issue is that our hour meter quit. I'm pretty it was not factory because of how and where  it was spliced in.  -kind of funky.

Can anyone share where the OEM hour meter would have been and connected?

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Hein    63

We've been out riding quite a few times this summer.  More hot glassy days on the river this season.

 

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Hein    63

August fun. Alex (soon to be my son-in-law) scoring a 360 on the smokey Columbia.

Notice how he doesn't "claim it".  Chill dude, Alex.

Edited by Hein

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Hein    63

Got a little off kilter when loading the boat on the trailer and snapped one of the guide pole tubes inside the covers.  I had previously recovered them with better cushion material so no damage to the boat but had to make a new guide tube.

I purchased some new 2" ID ABS pipe and proceeded to cover it with 3/8" thick 2lb. density mini-cell closed cell foam which we also use under plywood floor in vans. Great material for this purpose as well.  Photo below is of the old broken tube and some of the materials for making new one.

guide_tube_1.png

Sprayed ABS tube and mini-cell with 3M 90 contact cement and then wrapped it. The bevel cut edge will let me overlap the end later.

guide_tube_2.png

more spray glue for the overlap.

guide_tube_3.png

overlap.

guide_tube_4.png

Below. Carefully trim excess. Will sand smooth later.

guide_tube_5.png

making some foam end caps.  2 layers for good protection and this also seals the ends so the tubes will trap air and bob up when the trailer goes into the water. This is important.

guide_tube_6.png

2nd layer of foam

guide_tube_7.png

foam cover trued and cleaned up with some 80 grit:

guide_tube_8.png

Top end wrapped with some heavy tape for added protection. When things go wrong this is what the hull hits so extra protection here is vital.

guide_tube_9.png

Ready to go out to the barn, put the cover sleeves back on and install the new guide tube over the steel tubes.

Edited by Hein

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