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Hein    61
26 minutes ago, Maxpowers1207 said:

I cut it out and it looked good height wise. But seemed about 3/16 short width wise. 

Can you post a photo? Did you check the print out to see if was printed at full scale in both directions?

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16 hours ago, Hein said:

Can you post a photo? Did you check the print out to see if was printed at full scale in both directions?

I just reprinted it 2 more times.  The file I downloaded came out as a PDF that was set for "fit page", which was 94.  I increased that to 100% and it looked like by height and width moved.  I will get pictures for you tonight when I get home from work.  

Thanks again for double checking this...I think I'm doing it right, but have no experience with CNC

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21 hours ago, Hein said:

Can you post a photo? Did you check the print out to see if was printed at full scale in both directions?

Here are the pictures.   I checked again and it seems like I printed it at 100%.  But then again,  I do juvenile probation work and engineering is foreign to me. 

20180530_192943.jpg

20180530_192940.jpg

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Hein    61

Forgot to ask about the holes. I have a lot of projects going. Carefully punch those out to see if they line up. Sorry for all the back an forth. Prefer we continue the conversation via email.  Hein  at  DIYvan  .   com

All the best,

Hein

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Hein    61

installing our new prop.  My method is to put on the puller, tighten the nut to put some tension on it and then gently heat the propeller with a propane torch until it expands enough to pop loose. Works great and no need to really crank down on the puller nut or bang on anything with a hammer.

New prop was not very well de-burred so I'll clean up the sharp edges with some 200 grit.

Edited by Hein

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Hein    61

new_prop_installed.png

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Hein    61

Having a great time on the river so far this summer.  Little issue is that our hour meter quit. I'm pretty it was not factory because of how and where  it was spliced in.  -kind of funky.

Can anyone share where the OEM hour meter would have been and connected?

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Hein    61

We've been out riding quite a few times this summer.  More hot glassy days on the river this season.

 

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Hein    61

August fun. Alex (soon to be my son-in-law) scoring a 360 on the smokey Columbia.

Notice how he doesn't "claim it".  Chill dude, Alex.

Edited by Hein

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Hein    61

Got a little off kilter when loading the boat on the trailer and snapped one of the guide pole tubes inside the covers.  I had previously recovered them with better cushion material so no damage to the boat but had to make a new guide tube.

I purchased some new 2" ID ABS pipe and proceeded to cover it with 3/8" thick 2lb. density mini-cell closed cell foam which we also use under plywood floor in vans. Great material for this purpose as well.  Photo below is of the old broken tube and some of the materials for making new one.

guide_tube_1.png

Sprayed ABS tube and mini-cell with 3M 90 contact cement and then wrapped it. The bevel cut edge will let me overlap the end later.

guide_tube_2.png

more spray glue for the overlap.

guide_tube_3.png

overlap.

guide_tube_4.png

Below. Carefully trim excess. Will sand smooth later.

guide_tube_5.png

making some foam end caps.  2 layers for good protection and this also seals the ends so the tubes will trap air and bob up when the trailer goes into the water. This is important.

guide_tube_6.png

2nd layer of foam

guide_tube_7.png

foam cover trued and cleaned up with some 80 grit:

guide_tube_8.png

Top end wrapped with some heavy tape for added protection. When things go wrong this is what the hull hits so extra protection here is vital.

guide_tube_9.png

Ready to go out to the barn, put the cover sleeves back on and install the new guide tube over the steel tubes.

Edited by Hein

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Hein    61

Put the covers back on and wrapped/glued the cut off end of a wetsuit sleeve over the top of the guide for further protection and to keep the covers from sliding down.

guide_tube_10.png

3M 90 adhesive:

guide_tube_11.png

Previously added these collars (photo below) so the tubes won't jamb against the welded on bumps. That keeps the tubes from bobbing up. We will make more of these and will list on our ebay store.  It's just a snug fitting ring CNC'd out of plastic.

guide_tube_12.png

guide_tube_13.png

guide_tube_15.png

All done. Thanks for following along. We do stock the Minicell foam if you can't find it locally. I have some extra ABS pipe so willing to make some of these tube covers for those who would rather buy than DIY.

All the best,

Hein

DIYvan.com

54l 49O 5O98

Edited by Hein
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Hein    61
13 hours ago, Transporter said:

 I wonder if you could run the outer baffle and the inner baffle from ggb or whatever.I already have the outer one.

My cowl just covers the sideswipe port. You could definitely also put a silencer (I like the ggb inserts) inside the hose.

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Hein    61

We had a ballast drain pump fail so needed to empty our tank with our backup pump connected to the vent lines. That took some fiddling at the dock. As we drained the tank the boat came up in the water and the cowl bumped the bottom of the dock wrapper.  It broke the cowl which is weak enough to not cause any damage to the boat.  So I ordered and new 3D printed cowl which arrived in a few days. Back on the water within the week!

broken_cowl.png

 

Edited by Hein

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Hein    61

We had a foil rider join us during our last sessions.  He was towed in by the PWC and then rode our wave.

 

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InfinitySurf    289

Thats pretty cool. My buddy got a foil a few months ago, was fun to do something different tho you gotta be pretty careful to not get hurt. I got twisted up on the thing about a month ago, was unable to bail off in time and landed on the metal mast...made a nice gash in my shin, still wearing the scar! Lesson learned tho...when a foil gets squirrely, bail off. You can "force" a foil to come around cause of that mast (least I am not able to yet).

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Hein    61

Thanks for your reply, Infinity.  Appreciate your words of caution. There are a lot of foils around here with the windsports and SUP foiling. A number of pro level guys like our friend in the video.  We have an LP carbon foil and Slingshot hoverglide foil but just haven't had the gumption to give it a go. I suffered a shoulder injury right after I bought the LP (not related) so figured I better wait until I got stronger before paying my dues on a foil. We picked up the hoverglide with a shorter mast to learn on. We also ride kites so learning behind the boat has added benefit going forward. After seeing this guy we are all totally committed to foiling next season.  We might get out a few more times but days are getting shorter/cooler so will dedicate T.O.W. to wakesurfing.

All the best, Hein

Edited by Hein

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Hein    61

Happy New Year!

To get ready for a fun 2019, I changed the oil in the boat.  I use a vacuum pump and reservoir to suck the oil out. Then empty the reservoir into milk jugs.  Happy to have the remote filter. I put a plastic bag over the filter and then remove it. Even then, it's tough not to get some spillage in the bilge.  409 to clean that up.  Oil used is Royal Purple full synthetic 10W-40.

Plan on changing the oil in the transmission (not v-drive gear box) this year. Anyone have an fluid recommendation?

All the best,

Hein

engine_oil_removal_suction_setup.png

oil_suction_tank_drain_valve.png

Put up some more board racks while the oil was being sucked out.  Can't have too many boards!

more_board_racks.png

Edited by Hein

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InfinitySurf    289

I change my engine oil the same way...for any misc spillage, I use 2) plastic grocery bags doubled up with some paper towels in it and set that down in the bilge under the filter, that way if some oil gets out of my gallon zip lock while removing the filter, it drips down into the plastic bags so there is no mess. Has worked well for me.

Do you have your engine manual that tells you the Trans oil recommended? My ZR409 calls for Dexron III, which is harder to find now in its true form since very few modern engines use it, the only stuff I could find at local places like Advance Auto, NAPA, etc....was not actually Dex III, but said "it was compatible". That made me nervous and I did not want to use anything that was exactly the correct stuff. My guess is that your engine would call for the same trans oil?

I ended up finding some on Amazon and buying June 21st of 2018 (link below). I paid $5.81 each as an "add on item", I see the price has since gone up since then to 11.70, course mine only needed 2 quarts. Its Chevron 39770 MD-3.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0097SBAR8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Hein    61

Thanks for the tips, Infinity. I double bag with paper towels but then have trouble grabbing the filter to spin it off.  It get's quite slippery inside the bags and I always manage to spill a little oil. Emptying the vacuum tank into the milk jugs is nice.

For the transmission, I have a case of RP Max ATF which is compatible with Dexron III so will use that.

Also ordered a check valves for the 1" fill line running to the bow bag.  Searched for an hour trying to find some that are more affordable than the ones ballast bag folks sell.  Whale makes some that appear good but decided on these instead:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TRUDESIGN-One-Way-Hose-Connector-Non-return-Valve-1-25mm/142477839142

Will report how they look and work when I receive them. (guess I got the last ones from that seller)

All the best,

Hein

Edited by Hein

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InfinitySurf    289

@Hein 

What kind of metal channel....and then fittings to secure the support to the metal channel did you use for those board racks in above pics? I like how simple and clean it looks.

I made some racks for my garage a few months ago using a 2x4 for the vertical "rail" against the garage wall, drilled some holes in the 2x4 and used some CPVC fittings to make the supports and then covered with the pipe insulation. I glued/screwed a 45 degree angle into the 2x4 and then connected my pipe since I wanted some angle for mine. Turned out nice but it took more time than I really have available since I have other projects I need to finish with the season right around the corner and I still need to change the length of the top 3 racks I did and finish the ends like the lower 2 rack supports. Really it took me too long partly cause my normal OCD kicked in and I sanded/painted the 2x4 vertical supports, put some extra adhesive foam against the vertical supports so my boards dont touch the wood since my racks are angled, etc.

Anyway, would like to add another set of racks and it looks like your system if fairly simple and sturdy if you dont mind sharing the materials you used? Thanks!

Back angle. Wall surf rack pic.jpg

Side angle. Wall surf rack.jpg

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Hein    61
On 3/15/2019 at 6:45 AM, InfinitySurf said:

@Hein 

What kind of metal channel....and then fittings to secure the support to the metal channel did you use for those board racks in above pics? I like how simple and clean it looks.

Hello and thank you for asking.

The channels are ordinary Unistrut that I purchased at the Home Depot and painted with Rustoleum Truck Bed Coating.  We support the DIY and professional van up-fitting market and have a number of manufacturers around the state who produce the products that I design. We also do CNC machining in house.

We have 250 of the part that bolts onto the Unistrut (using 1/4-20 bolts and unistrut nuts also from HD) that the boards sit on in process and will have them available for sale at our ebay store and for local pickup at our warehouse in Hood River.  Still have to work up the cost and we probably won't have them painted to reduce the final price to the consumer. Totally manufactured in Oregon, USA. We had a paid intern design the parts as part of her CAD learning experience. She is off to a top engineering school next year. She did some other projects and ran our CNC equipment as well. Top flight gal!  We are also kite, windsurf and paddle boarders and know a lot of folks who are boardheads so these will likely go fast so we'll have more made. I've used them for years and had the first ones made many years ago when I designed construction equipment for CASE.

All the best, Hein@DIYvan.com

Edited by Hein
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Packrat    12

Regarding your custom sacks, could you post a picture of how you  have the drain pumps hooked up? Do you have the pumps loose attached to the sack or did you use the pump bracket from the hard tank and mount the pump sitting upright? 

Thanks getting ready to remove the mid ship tanks on my 2008 Enzo.

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Hein    61

Hello Packrat.  Glad to help.

Below are a couple shots that show how they are connected to the bag. The elbow is in the port in the bottom of the bag at the back. We can get most all of the water drained when we are done riding so we can get on a full plane when we head back to the marina. Then I run them again while going up the ramp to get the last of it out. I covered the tops of the pumps with neoprene coozies so the plastic would not wear against the bags. Each pump is wired with a weatherpack connector so we can easily replace them if they start acting tired. We carry a spare pump on board.

ballast_drain_pump1.png

ballast_drain_pump2.png

Our beloved Enzo 230SV is for sale because I just made a down payment on a 2019 Fi25. We can't wait for the new season to start.

All the best,

Hein@DIYvan.com

Until then I've been riding the pump track to give my legs a work out.

hein_pump_tracking_after_work.png

 

Edited by Hein

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Packrat    12

Thanks for the photos very good idea on the koozies. Do you happen to know the custom size of your port mid sac?   Is there a concern about the starboard rear locker sac pressing up against the starboard Bennett tab box? When you surf do you use any other weight besides the custom Enzo and custom mid sac now? Thanks 

Edited by Packrat

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