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Hein    63

Had a chance to test the new bags today.  Sitting a good 8" deeper in the water and the wave definitely got bigger. RPM's jumped up to 3000 (from 2700) to keep the boat going 10-11 mph. More gas was used.

 

submerged_swim_platform_ftw.png

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Hein    63

 

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Jlagos    23

Wave has transformed nicely with the increased ballast. Do you think the beaver tail you added has provides benefit?

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Hein    63

Thanks and good question. Probably the biggest improvement was from the bags (weight) followed by the suck gate (which got rid of foamy lip).  The beaver tail does help but I added it early on before the other mods.  I'd be happy to CNC another one for someone to try out. (you pay material cost + shipping.)

Our wave got a lot steeper with the weight so the tail probably helps draw it out a bit. We had one crew sit in the front which made the wave longer but not really any smaller. I'm thinking of placing the bag we normally run on the back seat in the bow next time we are out with less crew.  ( we already have a V-shaped bow bag under the seats)

Edited by Hein

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CO Surfer    289

Looks good!

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Hein    63

Thinking about selling this boat and getting a Ri 257

We just picked up a new Bimini from Sewlong.

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InfinitySurf    307
22 minutes ago, Hein said:

Thinking about selling this boat and getting a Ri 257

We just picked up a new Bimini from Sewlong.

Now that, is a decision I don't think anyone would regret!!

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RhuntIII    557

@Hein,

Man, not sure how I missed your build. Excellent work my man but it's gonna be hard to come up with mods on a 257. These new boats come pretty rigged out from the factory these days.

Thanks again for sharing and good luck with your upgrading.

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Jlagos    23
On 4/3/2018 at 11:27 PM, InfinitySurf said:

Now that, is a decision I don't think anyone would regret!!

Yep, new boat syndrome. It's just a matter of time.

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Hein    63

Not ruling out a new boat but want to take the time to get the bimini mounted and everything dialed in for the summer whether we keep it or not.  Our tower already had tapped holes for mounting a bimini bracket so I've decide to fabricate some custom mounting plates instead of using the Sewlong system. I temporarily used the Sewlong plates upside down to get the top aligned and looking pretty good. We also already had strut connections on the forward tubes so using those to support the front of the bimini frame. Sewlong provided extra long tubes with the intent of me cutting them down to fit. Two cuts and I have them where they fit really good and will be great when the wind picks up.

Overall look from rear: 

bimini_test_fit_rear_quarter_upward.png

Side view (bracket is upside down for mock-up only)

bimini_test_fit_side_view_upward.png

Front view

bimini_test_fit_front_view.png

Pylon cutout:

bimini_test_fit_pylon_cutout.png

Below. Upside down bracket for test fitting. Glad I was able to make it work temporarily because that will save a bunch of time coming up with a custom plate.  Also considering some other minor upgrades so check back in a week or two. Overall, very happy with the Sewlong product.

bimini_test_fit_with_sewlong_bracket_ups

Edited by Hein
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Hein    63

Scrounged some poster board. Climbed the ladder. Made a template. Measured and labeled it. Recreated in CAD and added some swoopy-ness. My plate will use the existing holes (one with nut and other visible below bimini frame on tower - photo above) plus another that I'll drill and tap in the tower once the shape and location is final. 3 points make a plane, not 2. Programming and plastic test parts coming up.  Then final part in black anodized aluminum.

bimini_plate_template_and_CAD.png

Edited by Hein
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Hein    63

Cut a bracket test piece out of 1/4" ABS. Easy to drill in order to finalize hole locations.  Now back to make updates in CAD and then run another pair of test pieces for final fit check.

bimini_plate_test_fit.png

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Hein    63

Looks like a boating day tomorrow so decided to run some plates out of some 1/4" poly-carbonate that I had on hand. Added a bar to link between the two pole brackets. They are clevises and the plate is attached to the back so the bar fills the space between the ears. <-that probably makes no sense.

bimini_plate_bar_pc_installed.png

Photo of link bar and plate with peel & stick EDPM rubber pad applied to protect tower finish.

bimini_plate_bar_pc.png

Edited by Hein

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Hein    63

Nice to have some shade on a sunny day. Got a little wrinkle but probably can tighten that up with a couple velcro straps to the sides.

bimini_success.png

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Hein    63

Bimini worked great but unfortunately hit a small log and bent the prop which threw it out of balance. We are limited to 13.5" diameter prop and were running a 16" pitch with .110 cup with great results. I'm going to try the same prop with more cup (.150)  to give us a little better hole shot and maybe drive the RPMs at surfing speed down just a tad.

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InfinitySurf    307

Sucks when prop gets dinged. Are they just repairing your dinged up prop and changing the cup? Nettle Props out of Austin TX does a great job, I bought a new one from them and they repaired one for me that looked brand new when done. 

Mods are looking good! You should tint that bad boy....always looks extra awesome on black boats and helps keep some of the heat off the dash, especially if you use the ceramic tint

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Hein    63

We purchased a new one (with more cup) and will contact Nettle about fixing the bent one. Thanks for the referral. I did call Acme for an explanation of cup which was helpful.  Based on my understanding,  I think it equates to thickening an airfoil to create more lift so more better hole shot and more top end.  There will be more load on the engine at a given RPM. So the question is which prop will better fit the torque curve.  - I guess.  Main reason to go with the slightly different prop is to experience the difference first hand.  I'll be sure to report back.

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InfinitySurf    307
40 minutes ago, Hein said:

We purchased a new one (with more cup) and will contact Nettle about fixing the bent one. Thanks for the referral. I did call Acme for an explanation of cup which was helpful.  Based on my understanding,  I think it equates to thickening an airfoil to create more lift so more better hole shot and more top end.  There will be more load on the engine at a given RPM. So the question is which prop will better fit the torque curve.  - I guess.  Main reason to go with the slightly different prop is to experience the difference first hand.  I'll be sure to report back.

Just an FYI....if you bought the new prop from Nettles, they give you $50 off on a repair. They have done some great things with props messing with the cup...my "torque" props will pull all my weight easily and still give me 40mph on top end. Some years ago you could do one or the other, not both.

Just so you know, if you like what the cup does on the new prop (or not and want something different), Nettles can also change the cup to your liking when they do the repair so you have a good spare. Wakemakers has some decent pricing on props too but I have found Nettles to be the cheapest for the ones I use.

NettlesProps.com...512-837-7707

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Hein    63

Justin at Sewlong suggested I pinch off and mark the top, send it to them and they'll quickly rework it to improve the fit. They also are willing to refund the cost of the brackets we did not use.

Thank you, Sewlong.  You are the greatest.

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On 5/21/2016 at 11:30 PM, Hein said:

I designed some cowls for the side swipe ports to help reduce exhaust noise. These are 3D printed by Shapeways. We tried version 1 last year but they fell off because I hurriedly attached them with silicon sealant. The noise was less but we didn't get a chance to fully test with them. Version 2 below is attached internally with small angle brackets held on by the screws in the sideswipe bezel. And then the perimeter is sealed with urethane adhesive. Hopefully they'll stay put this time so we can make a proper evaluation. I am hoping these will keep the exhaust gasses submerged so we won't have switch the exhaust to just one side.

 

sideswipe_cowl_v2.jpg

What is the size of your side swipe?  I am interested in your cowls.  I measured the chrome on my side swipe at 9 9/16 by 5 1/8.  Was that what yours was?

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On 5/21/2016 at 11:30 PM, Hein said:

I designed some cowls for the side swipe ports to help reduce exhaust noise. These are 3D printed by Shapeways. We tried version 1 last year but they fell off because I hurriedly attached them with silicon sealant. The noise was less but we didn't get a chance to fully test with them. Version 2 below is attached internally with small angle brackets held on by the screws in the sideswipe bezel. And then the perimeter is sealed with urethane adhesive. Hopefully they'll stay put this time so we can make a proper evaluation. I am hoping these will keep the exhaust gasses submerged so we won't have switch the exhaust to just one side.

 

sideswipe_cowl_v2.jpg

What is the size of your side swipe?  I am interested in your cowls.  I measured the chrome on my side swipe at 9 9/16 by 5 1/8.  Was that what yours was?

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Hein    63

Good call to verify. I have the trim plate as an ellipse 5.200 x 7.560 so quite a bit shorter than yours.  Can you post a photo? I can modify the model pretty easily but it's still nice to print a paper template to check the fit before printing parts.

Edited by Hein

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18 hours ago, Hein said:

Good call to verify. I have the trim plate as an ellipse 5.200 x 7.560 so quite a bit shorter than yours.  Can you post a photo? I can modify the model pretty easily but it's still nice to print a paper template to check the fit before printing parts.

Here are some pics... let me one of you need more. 

20180523_174544.jpg

20180523_174619.jpg

20180523_174631.jpg

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Hein    63

Download this file:  http://www.impact3d.com/sideswipe_bezel.pdf

print at 100% scale, cut out and see how it lines up with your bezel.

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