2008 Enzo SV230 projects

[h20king 794]

5 hours ago, Hein said:

Thanks for the replies.

I am aware of the requirement but would rather have clean air going into the engine.  IMO, the AEM air cleaner will be fine for arresting sparks but I suppose I could get an SAE rated one from K&N. Not too keen on their performance and having to soak them in oil. Seems that would be more flammable than a dry filter.  We had our boat inspected last year and the sheriff never lifted the engine cover. Your results may vary.

h20king, Glad to hear your input but please don't quote all my photos if you want to reply. It' seems sort of redundant.

Really? I'm still figuring out the new sight. Fact is though this is a public site  if you don't like the way people reply don't post.

[Hein 63]

Dearest H20king,

Sorry to hear that you are having trouble figuring out the new interface. My request to you was friendly. I thought it would be fun to share some work I'm doing and provide some content for the Centurion Crew to enjoy. The flavor of your reply has me reconsidering.

In the mean time...

I contacted AEM to see if their filter would meet the flame (its not for sparks) arrestor requirement and will post their response.  The OEM flame arrestor was loosely installed with two tiny screws on one side. I am pretty sure it would have blown off with a backfire so probably not adequate in the first place.

I also had a look at the Oregon boating laws and the requirement is so old (1948) that it predates the electronic fuel injection that most all inboards have these days. I don't think its likely that these newer engines will backfire during normal operation. It has never happened on our boat. But I do remember it being a more frequent on boats with carburetors which were easy to flood if you pumped the gas too much.

All the best,

Hein

Edited August 12, 2017 by Hein

[Hein 63]

On 8/10/2017 at 1:07 PM, Maxpowers1207 said:

Hein, I'm just following up with your cowls...did you make them yourself or buy them?

I had them 3D printed at Shapeways.com. I can make them publicly available via my shop there if you would like to purchase a set.  I won't mark them up so you can get them at my cost. There is a right and a left and the price is $40 ea plus shipping.  There are some little brackets I made by hand that you would have to fabricate. I used aluminum angle. Also have to seal the edge where it meets the boat with some 3M 4200 or 5200 adhesive.

P.S.   I made them available at our shop:

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/impactproducts

Edited August 12, 2017 by Hein

[Hein 63]

Bags are all in and plumbed!  First photo is of starboard bag looking towards the back. The step/box covers the sideswipe valves. They are made of Celtec expanded PVC. A bulkhead comes forward and has a channel for the engine side panels. I CNC'd new ones to fit.

Below is an earlier photo of one of the the custom inner bulkheads that go beside the front bags under the seats. Aluminum channel was attached to the lighter edge for the engine side panels. I re-used the hard tank brackets to attach the new bulkheads at the bottom. I glued blocks under the seats to fix the top of the bulkheads. Then fully carpeted the space.

Below is the rear end of the port side under seat bulkhead with new divider panel beside the engine. I rebuilt the whole setup on both sides to fully constrain the bags on the inside.

Below is the port bag installed showing new engine divider panel and vent lines.

We now have 4 ballast fill pumps. This photo shows the OEM pump (above) which fill the rear bags and the new pump horizontal which fills the front bags which are tee'd together. I retained the original separate drain pumps. Just don't think we can keep from damaging the  the reverse-able pumps by running them dry.

Below. Each fill pump is connected to a dedicated port with ball valve.

One of the pumps is used for the bow bag and bag we throw on the seat sometimes. We added a couple thru-hull fittings to vent and drain this bag.

Edited September 8, 2017 by Hein

[Hein 63]

Cut and installed some new aluminum channels and CNC'd a slip-in panel for the bottom half of the walkway to the bow. Used some VHB tape on the back of the channels to attach them more securely than the 3 #8 screws used at the factory. I made the panel out of Celtec expanded PVC instead of seaboard HDPE. It's lighter and a smidge thinner so doesn't need to be machined down to fit inside the channels.

We keep the seats propped up when the boat is in storage so air can move through.

Edited September 10, 2017 by Hein

[Hein 63]

Had a chance to test the new bags today.  Sitting a good 8" deeper in the water and the wave definitely got bigger. RPM's jumped up to 3000 (from 2700) to keep the boat going 10-11 mph. More gas was used.

 

[Hein 63]

 

[Jlagos 23]

Wave has transformed nicely with the increased ballast. Do you think the beaver tail you added has provides benefit?

[Hein 63]

Thanks and good question. Probably the biggest improvement was from the bags (weight) followed by the suck gate (which got rid of foamy lip).  The beaver tail does help but I added it early on before the other mods.  I'd be happy to CNC another one for someone to try out. (you pay material cost + shipping.)

Our wave got a lot steeper with the weight so the tail probably helps draw it out a bit. We had one crew sit in the front which made the wave longer but not really any smaller. I'm thinking of placing the bag we normally run on the back seat in the bow next time we are out with less crew.  ( we already have a V-shaped bow bag under the seats)

Edited September 12, 2017 by Hein

[CO Surfer 289]

Looks good!

[Hein 63]

Thinking about selling this boat and getting a Ri 257

We just picked up a new Bimini from Sewlong.

[InfinitySurf 302]

22 minutes ago, Hein said:

Thinking about selling this boat and getting a Ri 257

We just picked up a new Bimini from Sewlong.

Now that, is a decision I don't think anyone would regret!!

[RhuntIII 555]

@Hein,

Man, not sure how I missed your build. Excellent work my man but it's gonna be hard to come up with mods on a 257. These new boats come pretty rigged out from the factory these days.

Thanks again for sharing and good luck with your upgrading.

[Jlagos 23]

On 4/3/2018 at 11:27 PM, InfinitySurf said:

Now that, is a decision I don't think anyone would regret!!

Yep, new boat syndrome. It's just a matter of time.

[Hein 63]

Not ruling out a new boat but want to take the time to get the bimini mounted and everything dialed in for the summer whether we keep it or not.  Our tower already had tapped holes for mounting a bimini bracket so I've decide to fabricate some custom mounting plates instead of using the Sewlong system. I temporarily used the Sewlong plates upside down to get the top aligned and looking pretty good. We also already had strut connections on the forward tubes so using those to support the front of the bimini frame. Sewlong provided extra long tubes with the intent of me cutting them down to fit. Two cuts and I have them where they fit really good and will be great when the wind picks up.

Overall look from rear: 

Side view (bracket is upside down for mock-up only)

Front view

Pylon cutout:

Below. Upside down bracket for test fitting. Glad I was able to make it work temporarily because that will save a bunch of time coming up with a custom plate.  Also considering some other minor upgrades so check back in a week or two. Overall, very happy with the Sewlong product.

Edited May 9, 2018 by Hein

[Hein 63]

Scrounged some poster board. Climbed the ladder. Made a template. Measured and labeled it. Recreated in CAD and added some swoopy-ness. My plate will use the existing holes (one with nut and other visible below bimini frame on tower - photo above) plus another that I'll drill and tap in the tower once the shape and location is final. 3 points make a plane, not 2. Programming and plastic test parts coming up.  Then final part in black anodized aluminum.

Edited May 10, 2018 by Hein

[Hein 63]

Cut a bracket test piece out of 1/4" ABS. Easy to drill in order to finalize hole locations.  Now back to make updates in CAD and then run another pair of test pieces for final fit check.

[Hein 63]

Looks like a boating day tomorrow so decided to run some plates out of some 1/4" poly-carbonate that I had on hand. Added a bar to link between the two pole brackets. They are clevises and the plate is attached to the back so the bar fills the space between the ears. <-that probably makes no sense.

Photo of link bar and plate with peel & stick EDPM rubber pad applied to protect tower finish.

Edited May 13, 2018 by Hein

[Hein 63]

Nice to have some shade on a sunny day. Got a little wrinkle but probably can tighten that up with a couple velcro straps to the sides.

[Hein 63]

Bimini worked great but unfortunately hit a small log and bent the prop which threw it out of balance. We are limited to 13.5" diameter prop and were running a 16" pitch with .110 cup with great results. I'm going to try the same prop with more cup (.150)  to give us a little better hole shot and maybe drive the RPMs at surfing speed down just a tad.