Winterizing PCM 409

[stoked 1,039]

I installed a flush kit on mine, I kind of need it because we spend some time in brackish water, so I flush after every use. The problem I had with pulling antifreeze through is that I wouldn't get it to build up enough suction from the water intake to the inline flush/check valve to the 4 feet of hose to the transom to the additional 4 feet of hose to my bucket of antifreeze. Even though I had zero leaks, I'm still a little worried that I have a bad seal somewhere in the line.

[DrNate 426]

Thanks for the detailed write-up, was a very interesting read. Fortunately where I live I don't have to deal with draining the block or running antifreeze through, etc. but after reading this I'm not sure I would even attempt to change my own impeller. No wonder the shop hates working on my boat so much, I don't blame them!

 

My old Indmar engine sure seemed so much easier for maintenance!

[stoked 1,039]

Thanks for the detailed write-up, was a very interesting read. Fortunately where I live I don't have to deal with draining the block or running antifreeze through, etc. but after reading this I'm not sure I would even attempt to change my own impeller. No wonder the shop hates working on my boat so much, I don't blame them!

 

My old Indmar engine sure seemed so much easier for maintenance!

The impeller was a BEAST!! My black scorpion was way easier to get to. I do think there is a trade off though. With the 409, you just take the front off, albeit you need to be a contortionist. The scorpion was easier to access, but you had to pull the fuel separator out and then pull the entire water pump out just to get it apart.

 

I think the real hard part is going to be putting the impeller back in...

[viking 491]

bottom drain plug on fuel filter is a 7/8.................

I'm glad I changed out filter too!

 

Also a trick I learned a long time ago was to use a zip lock back over the oil filter to ensure no mess when removing. Worked like a charm!!

 

I flushed with anti-freeze after I warmed engine up. Then I drained. Yes probably $20 down the tubes but small price to pay for a peace of mine.

No problem at all getting it to suck the anti-freeze using the adapter that came with the flush unit (had to have the valve for the raw water "off" when using the plug)

 

Also blew out the heater lines with air compressor!

 

[stoked 1,039]

bottom drain plug on fuel filter is a 7/8.................

I'm glad I changed out filter too!

 

Also a trick I learned a long time ago was to use a zip lock back over the oil filter to ensure no mess when removing. Worked like a charm!!

 

I flushed with anti-freeze after I warmed engine up. Then I drained. Yes probably $20 down the tubes but small price to pay for a peace of mine.

No problem at all getting it to suck the anti-freeze using the adapter that came with the flush unit (had to have the valve for the raw water "off" when using the plug)

 

 

Also blew out the heater lines with air compressor!

 

 

I like the oil filter trick!! Never even thought of something like that, so simple!!

 

Nice catch on the flush, I need to find that guy for next year!

[viking 491]

 

 

Nice catch on the flush, I need to find that guy for next year!

 

LOL - Found it for ya. It's connected to your flush pro. I can see it in your first photo!

I'm glad I took a peek at the manual before I started or I wouldn't have known either.

[DarksideR 1,679]

Oh man, if I hadn't put a bag around my oil filter when I unscrewed it there would have been a serious mess!

Funny you spotted his adaptor in the pic!

[NW Boat Sports 232]

Zip lock is a good trick for tough to reach places. We also cut the bottom off a 1 gallon thing of oil with portion of handle remaining, works well with Fineline products with remote filter.

Edited November 17, 2015 by NW Boat Sports

[stoked 1,039]

Just put a new impeller in, the three bolts on the water pump are 10mm not 11, don't strip your bolts...

[DrNate 426]

I just got my boat back after a local place "changed my impeller". It instantly overheated and the alarms started sounding. What's the most obvious culprit do you guys think? Is there any way that you could possibly screw this up?

Edited March 28, 2016 by DrNate

[stoked 1,039]

I just got my boat back after a local place "changed my impeller". It instantly overheated and the alarms started sounding. What's the most obvious culprit do you guys think? Is there any way that you could possibly screw this up?

 

Check the valve at the through hull. The handle should be in line with the hose. If it is perpendicular, turn it and try again.

 

What was your test? In water or on a hose?

[volzalum 280]

If the old impeller was damaged there could be trash blocking at the next filter. I just did mine this weekend and had some broken blades so will be checking all up line before I put on water.

 

As an aside, because it's so tight I had my fiancé crawling back there to help, and she broke one of the bolts tightening it, so be careful.

 

Also, with the supercharger it is a little more difficult to do. Have to remove both belts to get it done.

[DrNate 426]

Check the valve at the through hull. The handle should be in line with the hose. If it is perpendicular, turn it and try again. What was your test? In water or on a hose?

 

The "test" was on the lake. Hope I didn't do any damage. I shut it down as soon as the temp alarm went off. Okay, this may be a stupid question but where exactly is the check valve? The thru hull is on the bottom of the boat for this, yes?

[stoked 1,039]

 

The "test" was on the lake. Hope I didn't do any damage. I shut it down as soon as the temp alarm went off. Okay, this may be a stupid question but where exactly is the check valve? The thru hull is on the bottom of the boat for this, yes?

 

It's a large black line with either a blue or green strip depending on your year, the valve should have a blue handle. Look for something like this:

On my boat it is on the Port side to the right of the V-Drive. On my old 07 Avy it was on the starboard side toward the back.

 

Basically look for any ball valve like the one above with a perpendicular handle, all of the handles should be inline with the hose. And yes, on the bottom of the boat

Edited March 28, 2016 by stoked

[Nick213 583]

Like stoked said.

Look under the rear center seat where the drain plug is.

[DrNate 426]

Man, you guys are the best. I'm hoping it's something as simple as that. Will check and report back

[DrNate 426]

Well I called them and they said they ran the boat for like 45 minutes on a fake a lake and no problems. Weird. I haven't checked the valves yet but I'm gonna do that before I take it back in. He said he would replace the impeller again no matter what because the overheating could have messed it up again. He also said the old impeller was not missing any fins or pieces, just a little worn. So hopefully that rules out any pieces of it going anywhere they weren't supposed to be.

 

How long would you have to run it dry to do engine damage? I shudder to think. I figure the alarm is there for a reason

Edited March 28, 2016 by DrNate

[stoked 1,039]

I definitely would replace the impeller after running it dry. Did you ask them if they closed any valves?

[viking 491]

I've heard of impeller failure where the rubber veins separate from the brass and basically stay stationary while the spindle spins. This type of failure can happen on otherwise perfect looking impeller. It's not very common but I have heard of it. I've added that to my list to check upon my inspection of the impeller. Stick a pair of needle nose pliers in the spline and try and twist on the veins to ensure they are connected. Might not be your issue but one thing to be aware of for anybody doing their own winterization/summerization!!

[stoked 1,039]

Also the fake a lake goes back to my earlier question about in the water or on the hose. If say they did something ridiculous like not put a new one in, the fake a lake will force water through an empty water pump and make it look all okay.